Keeping Cool at the Tbilisi Lakes

How many capital cities can you think of that contain three swimming lakes within the city limits?

Tbilisi, the Georgian capital, is one place that fits the bill, which is fairly impressive for a small city with a population of a little over one million. All three of the Tbilisi lakes, namely Lisi Lake, Turtle Lake, and the Tbilisi Sea, are easy to access as part of a brief visit to this beautiful city or as a destination to while away a leisurely afternoon with a book when the sun is shining.

Whilst Iiving in Georgian under lockdown these past 18 months, these watery refuges are a lifeline whenever I need a break from the city. Tbilisi is one of the most stimulating cities I’ve had the pleasure of calling home but nothing beats escaping from the honking cars and summer heat from time to time. These lakes are large enough to walk around but not so large that they require a full-blown hike and it is possible to swim in all three of Tbilisi’s lakes.

This is a quick guide to the Tbilisi lakes, including a brief overview of each, suggestions of what to do once you get there, and how to get there.

A Guide to the Tbilisi Lakes

Cooling down at the Tbilisi lakes is one of my favourite things to do in Tbilisi. Even if you only visit the city for a couple of days I recommend adding one of these lovely lakes to your Tbilisi itinerary. All are relatively easy to get to and they provide a golden opportunity to slow down and catch your breath in a pocket of urban nature. 

The Tbilisi lakes are perfect to visit whatever time of year it is, and I’ve had the privilege of experiencing them in all four of Georgia’s distinct seasons.

During the peak of summer when temperatures in town skyrocket to 40°C (104°F) the water is ideal for a dip whilst the altitude of Turtle and Lisi lakes offers some respite from the city heat. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable times to visit in terms of weather and fewer crowds whilst winter turns the lakes of Tbilisi into a snowy wonderland. Often the banks will are coated in a layer of snow and the water will freeze over. 

And now for a brief overview of each of the Tbilisi lakes so you can see them for yourself. 

Lisi Lake

Lisi Lake, which I assume is an abbreviated version of Tbilisi Lake, is located within the Tbilisi Basin. High in the ranges above the Saburtalo neighbourhood in the northwest of the city, the lake sits at an altitude of 624 metres (2,047 feet) above sea level and has a maximum depth of 4 metres (13 feet). Because the lake is set back on a plateau you do not get a city view from the lakeside but the scenery around the lake is lovely and green with soft rolling hills. 

The lake is well equipped for day trippers. Clustered around the water’s edge, you will find several food stalls, one public bathroom and a children’s playground. During summer there are often events and festivals held here, although sadly I’ve yet to experience one for myself (thanks a bunch, coronavirus). Lisi Lake is also the most accessible of all of the Tbilisi lakes if you want to use the public bus rather than rely on taxis.

Things to do at Lisi Lake, Tbilisi 

– A flat, paved track of 3 km (1.9 miles) forms a lap around the lake. One half of the trail is for walkers and runners whilst the other is for cyclists. Walking around the lake in its entirety takes 45-60 minutes but you can break this up by grabbing a spot to sunbathe along the banks or wandering up the hill on the northeastern section. 

– If you want to cycle around Lisi Lake then you can hire a bicycle for a nominal fee. As you approach the lake from the car park, turn left, and follow the path towards the public toilets and you’ll come to a small rental hut. I believe the hire cost is 10 GEL an hour and there are bikes for adults and children. 

– Pack a picnic and sunbathe around the lake during warmer weather. The pebble beach, which flanks the entrance to the lake area, is partially shaded by trees and it’s possible to swim in the lake during the summer from this section. By all means, go ahead and take a dip during winter but make sure you’ve got the emergency services on speed dial!

– Visit the Dog Organisation Georgia (D.O.G) Shelter and volunteer to take one of the rescue dogs for a walk. One of the saddest things about Georgia is the number of dogs and cats that you will see living on the streets but this is one initiative that is trying to home at least a percentage of the dogs. D.O.G operate a no-kill policy and seek to find forever homes for these poor dogs. 

– Lisi Lake has its own sulphur bathhouse, Lisi Bath, which is located just next to the car park and food stalls. The complex comprises both private baths and shared public baths that are separated by gender. Access to the communal pool costs 12 GEL for women and 15 GEL for men. Private rooms start at 65 GEL per hour and it is advisable to book in advance via Facebook (or over the phone if you don’t share my phone phobia). 

How to get to Lisi Lake

You can take the 29 bus service from the city up to Lisi Lake. The route starts at Station Square and swings past the Technical University and Medical University metro stations. You can swipe on with your Metromoney Card (50 tetri per journey). 

Alternatively, you can hail a Yandex/Bolt for a couple of lari from central Tbilisi. 

If you have your own means of transport then you can drive to Lisi Lake and leave your vehicle in the car park. It’s huge but the lake is very busy at weekends and public holidays so be warned that the spaces fill up fast. 

Turtle Lake

Another high-altitude lake but this time in the southwest of the city, Turtle Lake is located on the northern ridge of the highest and holiest mountain in Tbilisi, Mtatsminda. Turtle Lake sits at an altitude of 687 metres (2,254 feet) above sea level and reaches a maximum depth of 2.6 metres (8.5 feet). Its perimeter is a fraction smaller than Lisi Lake and you get a great aerial view of the city from the smallest of Tbilisi’s lakes. Well, from the car park anywho. 

As with Lisi Lake, Turtle Lake is one of the more developed Tbilisi lakes and features recreational facilities and hosts summer events.  

In case you’re wondering, yes, Turtle Lake was named for the turtles who used to reside in the water. There are fewer left these days and I’ve spotted more turtles rambling around the Mtatsminda trails than by the lake. Sometimes it is referred to as Korki Lake although this is fairly rare. Interesting fact: in 2016 gambusia fish were released into the water to kill the mosquitos responsible for spreading the Zika virus in Georgia.

Things to do at Turtle Lake, Tbilisi 

– It takes 30 minutes to walk around teeny tiny Turtle Lake. Again you may want to take a picnic and make an afternoon of it. As with Lisi Lake, there is a spread of restaurants and food stalls where you can grab snacks and drinks. You will find a marked area for swimming in the southeast corner of the lake. As the smallest of the Tbilisi lakes, the swimming zone is rather cosy and is usually pioneered by children. 

– Various sports facilities including a volleyball court, football field and outdoor gym are located on the eastern side of the lake. All are available for public use and from what I can tell, there is no payment or booking required. 

– Situated on the western side of the lake you will find the trailhead to a walk that takes you over the mountain to Mtatsminda Park. The 7 km (4.3 miles) hike takes around 3 hours one way and is accessible to most fitness levels with only a few mild uphills. The terrain is rough in places but sturdy trainers suffice over walking boots unless you intend to hike after heavy rainfall or snow. If you don’t want to do the entire hike then you can just walk to the viewpoint (pictured above) then return back down to the lake. This will take no more than 20 minutes. 

– The Open Air Museum of Ethnography is a 15 minute walk down the road from the Turtle Lake car park. Founded by the ethnographer, Giorgi Chitaia, this brings together a collection of Georgian homes that were constructed during the 18th and 19th centuries. Most were built in Western Georgia and then later purchased and transported to Tbilisi to form the museum. All the buildings you see are the original homes and guides are stationed within each property to glean some insight into the traditional lifestyle. Entry to the museum is 5 GEL and it is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am – 6pm. 

How to get to Turtle Lake

There is no public bus connection to Turtle Lake but there is a cable car service from Vake Park. This has been closed for refurbishment although I believe has just reopened for summer.  

Turtle Lake is also accessible via a walk from Vake Park. It’s not the most walker-friendly route as it means walking on the highway which has no pedestrian pavement for pedestrians. The road isn’t usually very busy and the drivers will give you plenty of space but be careful around the corners especially if you are walking with a dog or child.

A Yandex/Bolt from downtown Tbilisi will cost you a couple of lari. It’s easy to hail one for your return because the drive down to Vake only takes 10 minutes. 

Tbilisi Sea (Tbilisi Reservoir) 

With a surface area of 11.6 km2 (4.5 sq mi), the ‘sea’ is the largest of the three Tbilisi lakes. This one is an artificial reservoir that does indeed resemble the sea. It registers at 8.6 km (5.4 miles) in length and 2.85 km (1.7 miles) in width.

Tbilisi Sea is located in the northeast part of the city just beyond the Tbilisi Sea Cemetery. The western side of the lake is the most developed and accessible, due to the presence of the Sea Club and Sailing Club. 

Although it’s a manmade reservoir, the Tbilisi Sea is an overall more rugged experience than the other lakes in Tbilisi and does not provide clear hiking routes. It is possible to walk along the water but often paths will come to an abrupt halt in the shape of a fence or some private property. So this is the best of the Tbilisi lakes if you want to turn your visit into an adventure!

Things to do at the Tbilisi Sea

– If you decide to visit the Tbilisi Sea then you can combine this with a trip to see the Chronicle of Georgia. This 30-metre tall monument is a cluster of pillars that showcase the history of Georgia. Kings, queens, and heroes are depicted on the columns and there is also a series of reliefs outlining the life of Christ. Although erected in 1985, the monument was never completed and there isn’t any information provided to thoroughly explain what you’re looking at. When I visited with a Georgian friend, even he didn’t really understand what exactly is depicted. It’s still impressive to see it and wander around the complex so don’t let either of these facts deter you.

– If you want to walk around the lake, my suggestion is to coincide your visit with the Chronicle of Georgia and have your taxi drop you at the monument. From here, you can walk down to the pebble beach outside the Tbilisi Sailing Club. You can then follow a reasonably well marked path towards Temka Beach, from where the trail comes to an end. 

– For something more chill, head straight to the Tbilisi Sea Club where you will be able to hire a deckchair, swim in the pool, and eat at the lakeside cafe and bar. The entrance fee to Tbilisi Sea Club is 20 GEL and it usually opens late May/early June. 

– From Temka Beach you can walk to the Tbilisi Sea Cemetery. This hillside burial ground overlooks the lake and it’s interesting to see the lovingly tended graves which feature carved portraits of the deceased as well as picnic tables where the families gather for special occasions such as Georgian Orthodox Easter. 

How to get to the Tbilisi Sea 

The cheapest but sometimes confusing way to get to the Tbilisi Sea is the number 60 marshrutka (yellow Soviet-style shared minibuses that you’ll see everywhere in the city) from Station Square Metro. The journey costs 50 tetri and will take around 45 minutes to reach Tbilisi Sea Club. Taking intercity marshrutkas in Tbilisi is sometimes challenging as the destinations are not typically written in English.

Your second option is to ride the metro to Sarajishvili and hail a Yandex/Bolt for a couple of lari. You can reference either the Chronicle of Georgia or the Tbilisi Sea Club as your drop off point for ease. 

Alternatively, just take a Yandex/Bolt from central Tbilisi or your accommodation. Easy life, ey?

Enjoy the Lakes!

Hopefully this potted guide will help you figure out which of the Tbilisi lakes you want to visit! Trust me, these places are exactly what you need during the intense Georgian summer… Remember to pack your swimming gear and plenty of sunscreen, and have fun. 

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