When I heard about a volcano in East Java where blue fires flicker in the twilight, I didn’t hesitate to add it to my Indonesia wish list. Second thoughts rolled in when my alarm woke me up at 12.30 am and marked the start of my Mount Ijen sunrise hike and I wondered whether it would be worth it.
Mount Ijen (Kawah Ijen), an active stratovolcano, stands at an elevation of 2,769 metres (9,085 feet). The volcano’s crater is home to a highly corrosive acidic lake, a sulphur mine, and those rare electric-blue flames that glow in the middle of the night.
Besides Ijen, the natural phenomenon of blue fire is only found in Iceland. These flames are one of the main motivations behind the Mount Ijen sunrise hike. Produced by the combustion of sulphuric gases, these blue flickers emerge as a result of the high pressure and scorching temperatures that can reach 600°C.
However, as the blue flames are only visible at night, you need to hike up to the summit and descend into the bowels of the volcano before sunrise.
Table of Contents
Mount Ijen sunrise hike at a glance
Length: 9 km (5.6 miles) out and back
Elevation: 577 metres (1,893 feet)
Time to complete: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Five stages of the Mount Ijen hike
It’s a pretty standard affair in Southeast Asia to start hours before first light to scramble up a volcano. However, the Mount Ijen sunrise hike starts so early that it’s impossible to grab any decent shut-eye.
When planning how to visit Mount Ijen, account for the drive up the mountain, the summit hike, the descent into the crater, and the journey back from the summit.
Visiting Mount Ijen is broken down as follows.
1. Transfer from Banyuwangi
In general, the drive from Banyuwangi, the closest town, to Mount Ijen takes 90 minutes. Expect to be picked up from your accommodation between midnight and 1 am.
2. Hike to the summit
Hiking from the car park to the crater rim takes approximately 90-120 minutes and you will need to start walking by 2 am. The terrain is gravel and dirt with a moderate incline and a steep burst halfway.
3. Scramble into the crater
Once you catch your breath at the rim, you will slip on your filtration mask and climb into the crater down a rocky and narrow path strewn with rubble and loose boulders. This is steep and you will need to scramble in places. As you get closer to the base of the crater, you will start to encounter puffs of gases.
Anticipate 30 minutes hiking each way; plus time to explore the edge of the lake and see the blue fire.
4. Watch sunrise from the Ijen crater rim
You will exit the crater the same way that you came. Generally, the idea is to clear the crater at first light and be back on the rim in time to watch the sunrise. Depending on the time of year you visit, sunrise will take place between 5-6 am.
Allow sufficient time to find a spot where you can watch the sky turn orange and pink above the turquoise lake.
5. Descend down the mountain
Then, it’s back down the mountain. Walking down is incredible as you will now have the chance to see the mountain landscape – it’s far warmer too. Although the path is not too steep, it is rather slippery. This is the moment to use hiking poles if you have them.
What you need to know about the Mount Ijen sunrise hike
Here’s a quick overview of what you need to know about hiking Mount Ijen.
Where to stay for Mount Ijen – Banyuwangi
Banyuwangi is the most convenient base for the Mount Ijen hike. This small seaside town is located on the easternmost coast of Java and is 35 km (21.7 miles) from the trailhead.
This backpacker-friendly town has plenty of affordable hostels and guest houses as well as hotels. I stayed at the Thalia Homestay both times that I visited Banyuwangi. This is a simple guest house with a choice of three rooms and the hosts – an Indonesian couple – are accommodating and helpful.
It’s also possible to visit Mount Ijen as a tour from Bali, Yogyakarta, and other East Java cities.
Best time to visit Mount Ijen
You can technically visit Mount Ijen at any time of year. However, the conditions are slightly better between April and October – the dry season. Heavy rainfall during November and March may result in slippery paths. I tackled the Mount Ijen sunrise hike in September and the conditions were pleasant and it wasn’t too busy. It’s always advisable to check the weather forecast in advance and stay abreast of developments. Sometimes the crater is closed to the public when the gases are particularly toxic.
To tour or not to tour?
It’s possible to visit Mount Ijen independently or as part of a tour. There are dozens of tour guides in Banyuwangi that operate nightly excursions. Some are transport-only services while others include a guide who will accompany you from start to end.
The hike to and from the crater is not difficult and it is easy enough to find your way following the path and stream of other visitors. Once at the summit, you will climb down into the belly of the volcano to see the blue flames.
As you get closer, you need to brace yourself for toxic gases. Even when wearing the filtration mask, it’s impossible not to inhale the fumes and feel a burn on your eyes. I found the experience unsettling and appreciated having a friendly guide to steer me through the crater.
I arranged my Mount Ijen sunrise hike with a guide through my accommodation, Thalia Homestay. Most guesthouses in Banyuwangi are able to make arrangements and you can make a booking when you check in. There’s no need to pre-book; you can make arrangements once you arrive in town.
Most tours include a stop at a waterfall on the way back to town.
Fee for Mount Ijen
All tourists must pay a fee before the Ijen sunrise hike. Admission for foreigners to visit Mount Ijen is 100,000 IDR on weekdays and 150,000 IDR on weekends.
When booking a tour you need to check whether it includes the tariff or whether it’s separate. If so, you’ll need to carry cash to pay near the car park.
Solo travellers
Solo travellers are welcome to join any of the Ijen tours; there is no minimum requirement.
Technically, I visited Ijen as a solo traveller. However, after meeting a couple of other travellers at Mount Bromo, I ended up visiting Ijen with two of the same women. But, my plan had always been to climb Ijen on my own.
We ended up going as a group of four – with another solo female traveller joining us in the car.
Even if you just book the mountain transfer and hike solo without a guide, it’s perfectly safe. There’s always other tourists so it’s nigh impossible to get lost.
However, if you are of a fairly anxious disposition like me, you might appreciate having a local guide with you while in the crater when clouds of gases are swirling around.
Hiking ability
The Mount Ijen hike is of moderate difficulty. While not drastically steep, the hike to the crater requires a decent level of stamina and fitness. On the other hand, the track into the crater to see the acidic lake and the blue flames is sketchy in places. It’s not unusual to topple over and skid on the loose terrain.
One option is to take the Mount Ijen sunrise hike up to the crater rim but not enter the pit itself. This is also better if you suffer from a condition that makes you more vulnerable to the toxic gases. The summit hike and sunrise experience is worth the trip alone.
Sulphur miners work at Ijen
Miners work around the clock at Mount Ijen and you will encounter these workers heaving heavy loads of sulphur out of the crater.
The pay is minimal and the conditions are dangerous. As well as carrying the weight of the sulphur, the workers are exposed to toxic gases and few wear gas masks. It really does put into perspective the challenge of hiking up Ijen for fun.
When visiting the volcano, always give the miners the right of way and step aside so that they have plenty of space to get past. Some of these men carve the sulphur into trinkets and sell them to tourists – this is a good way to support them if you can.
You may also donate filtration masks to the workers. As they can rarely afford to replace the filters, spare ones would make this even better.
Miners also make money by carrying visitors up the hill in wooden carts. This is as bad as riding the horses at Mount Bromo and is not recommended, for obvious reasons.
What to wear for the Mount Ijen sunrise hike
- Warm layers: As you’ll be hiking at a high altitude in the middle of the night, the temperature is cold. Plus, the summit is prone to bracing winds. Wear a couple of lightweight layers that you can remove once you warm up as well as for the climb back down the mountain.
- Hiking boots: Proper hiking boots are best for the Mount Ijen sunrise hike. The mountain terrain is slippery while the climb to the acidic lake is challenging. I wore regular running trainers and spent a lot of time falling on my bum.
- Beanie: Ijen is prone to winds and wearing a beanie or similar hat will keep you warm at the summit.
- Gloves: These come in handy for the scramble in and out of the volcano crater; they’ll protect your fingers from sharp rocks.
What to take
- Gas mask: If you intend on hiking into the crater to see the blue flames, you’ll need a gas mask or filtration mask. When you book a guide service, masks are included in the price. Otherwise, you can rent them in town or at the Ijen car park for a small fee.
- Headtorch: You’ll do the Mount Ijen sunrise hike in pitch dark so you’ll need a torch. A head torch is the best so that you can keep your hands free. Handheld torches are usually provided when you book a tour.
- Hiking poles: Not essential but if you do have them, poles are handy for the hike back down the mountain.
Getting to Banyuwangi
You can travel to Banyuwangi via train from elsewhere in Java or via ferry from the neighbouring island of Bali.
It’s typical to visit Kawah Ijen in tandem with Mount Bromo.
In that case, you can take the train from Probolinggo to Banyuwangi. There are usually five departures per day and the journey takes four hours. I always book Java train tickets online in advance with Traveloka. Business class tickets aren’t too expensive and are worthwhile as you get much more space.
Visiting Mount Ijen after Mount Bromo
It makes sense to visit Mount Ijen and Mount Bromo as part of the same trip and you can visit in either direction.
My recommendation would be to take a night in between the two hikes to recover. The Mount Ijen sunrise hike requires an extremely early start and is physically demanding.
Hiking to Mount Bromo is somewhat less challenging but you’ll have another night of limited sleep. This guide explains how to visit Mount Bromo without a tour.
Is the Mount Ijen sunrise hike worth it?
Despite the painfully early start and the hiking conditions being somewhat gruelling, this otherworldly site was completely worth it, in my experience.
The scenery is incomparable to anywhere else I’ve visited. I was fortunate that Mount Ijen wasn’t too busy and the weather was ideal for hiking. If you are concerned about the crowds, try and visit outside of the peak months.
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