Arthur’s Pass National Park is one of those places in New Zealand where the landscape, literally, blew me away. I say literally because the weather was wild during the time of my visit. As I drove my camper van along the twisty-turvy road with my windscreen wipers at full pelt and the wind blasting the side of the car, I was doubtful that it would be possible to go hiking. But, luck was on my side and I did make it up to the summit of Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track. And that’s exactly how this blog post came to be written!
Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track turned out to be one of the most rewarding day hikes that I enjoyed during my year living in New Zealand. The entire Arthur’s Pass region is a rugged, backcountry haven for hikers. Although I did get the sense that the area is often skipped by short-term visitors in favour of the more famous hikes and sights in New Zealand. One of the perks of my working holiday visa was having the chance to explore places that are a little less well-known.
If you’re headed to New Zealand or are currently based in the country and are looking for a challenging day hike, then I recommend hitting up Arthur’s Pass. As you’ll hear, the mountain was practically deserted the day that I went hiking. And I think that it generally is one of the quieter walks especially when compared to the likes of Roy’s Peak and the Tongariro Crossing.
So now, here’s all you need to know about how to plan your hike up Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track.
Table of Contents
What and where is Avalanche Peak?
Avalanche Peak is a mountain slap-bang in the middle of the mighty Kā Tiritiri o te Moana (Southern Alps). That’s the same range where you can find New Zealand’s tallest and most famous peak – Mount Cook/Aoraki. By comparison, whilst Avalanche Peak reaches an elevation of 1,833 metres (6,014 feet), Aoraki is (3,754 metres (12,316 feet). This mountain range slithers down the length of the South Island, concluding in the southwestern tip of Fiordland. They are often referred to as the backbone of the South Island.
The peak itself sits within Arthur’s Pass National Park, which forms the divide between Canterbury and the West Coast. During winter and spring, avalanches are not uncommon. Hence the catchy name, Avalanche Peak.
When you travel around the Arthur’s Pass region, you can see a striking change in the landscape on either side of the divide, whatever the weather or season. Tawhai (mountain beech) dominates the eastern sides. Over to the west, you can see rainforest foliage, red-flowering rātā and ample scatterings of the famous New Zealand ferns.
There are two hiking trails that take you up to the summit – or rather I should say ‘tramping’ trails now that we’re in New Zealand. There is the main Avalanche Peak Track and the alternative route, Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track. You can go up and down the same route or do a loop. In that case, it is recommended to ascend via Scott’s Track (less steep) and climb back down via the Avalanche Peak Track.
Due to the weather conditions when I visited the area, I took the Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track up and down.
Climbing Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track
As I said, the day I drove along the West Coast Road there was a torrential rainstorm. Something about experiencing New Zealand in the rain always gives me goosebumps. Arriving in the village, I parked up in the DOC campground and fell asleep in my van to the sound of pounding of rain forming a sludgy pool around my wheels.
These sorts of nights were the best and worst of living in a van in New Zealand. Clambering out during the middle of the night to answer the call of nature would inevitably end up with soggy feet. Ergo, a damp bed. But, few things compare to snuggling up on said bed and listening to the rain batter the roof. It just takes a heck of a lot of jumpers, socks, scarves and blankets (and in the ideal world, some cats) to reach that warm and snuggly state.
Waking up bright and early to blissful silence, I stuck my nose up against the window to confirm that the rain had stopped. The sky was cloudy but unthreatening, so I walked over to the DOC Visitor Centre to find out if the tracks were open.
An officer advised me that the main track up to Avalanche Peak was closed due to the inclement weather. She said that I could, however, take the alternative track, Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track. She urged me to keep an eye on the conditions and to turn back if I was unable to see the next marker pole through the cloud. This seemed practical so I nodded my head, shoved my nibbles into my rucksack and set off to the trailhead.
Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track: The Ascent
The first few hours of the Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track route up is crazy steep. Like, vertical. This is a fact made even crazier by the knowledge that Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track is the less steep option. I’m not sure my knees would have handled the main track.
Over the course of the tramp to the summit, you gain 1,100m in elevation and the first few hours of the track are vertical. So whilst it’s not a long distance the elevation contributes to the challenge of the hike. But if you want thighs of iron then this is the hike for you.
The Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track is strewn with rocks, tree roots and branches that you need to muster your way through. Thanks to the rainstorm, a near-constant flow of water rushed down the mountain. This makes the track slippery so if you also hike up in wet weather make sure you’ve got decent boots.
For the first hour or so, the track is within the bush so you don’t have a lot to see. But to be honest you’ll be so preoccupied with hoisting yourself up the track that this is a bit of a blessing. Eventually, the canopy does start to clear and from the more exposed part of track, you are able to see right across the valley. Even with the thick, low-lying cloud I was able to spot cascading waterfalls which after all the rainfall were in full might. Whatever the weather is like you should be able to see the Devil’s Punchbowl; the most famous waterfall in the national park.
Clouds
At some point after leaving the bushland, I bumped into another solo hiker – the first person I’d seen so far on the track. The guy told me that the clouds were too thick for him to see anything (including the next pole) and that he was calling it a day. He said this was the third time he’d attempted the hike over the past few days, and every day he’d had to abort (or it had been simply too wet to even attempt it).
I decided to continue just a wee bit further and take a snack-break on some rocks up ahead that I could see. As I sat there, watching the travelling wisps of cloud, the sky started to brighten up. To give you a sense of how much the clouds were changing, the following photos were taken within a minute of one another. In the exact same spot!
Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track: The Summit
Yet again, luck was on my side: the weather appeared to be taking a turn for the better. The clouds cleared, revealing blue skies and glimmers of sunlight. It was windy, bone-rattling so, and the track is very exposed once you’re out of the bush.
For the final few hours of the tramp, the track varies from relatively flat sections to others that are exceptionally steep, with spine-tingling drop-offs down the mountain. Much of the track is a gravelly scree slope which is slippy in places, regardless of the weather. Towards the end, I was essentially scrambling over a landslide waiting to happen rather than tramping.
But that being said, it’s usually these kinds of tracks that have the best results. And reaching the summit of Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track was totally worth it. The views speak for themselves, although as ever – no photo will ever do justice to the splendour that is New Zealand.
As I could see clouds reforming and swooping their way across the valley, I didn’t linger too long and made my way back down the mountain. At this point you can take the other track for the return. However, I felt more comfortable taking Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track again due to the conditions.
Devil’s Punchbowl Waterfall
Once I’d made it back down to the car park, I headed straight to the Devil’s Punchbowl Waterfall. From the car park, this is a flat, easy walk which takes around 30 minutes each way. Towards the end there’s a staircase which takes you to the viewing platform. The water cascades down a 131-metre canyon, before trickling into its ‘punchbowl’. Visiting shortly after the heavy rainfall was ideal – the waterfall was very much alive.
If you’re travelling in New Zealand, channel your inner Scout and Always Be Prepared. That means always have your bathers in your backpack. I’d gotten into the habit of plunging into ice-cold lakes and oceans in New Zealand, so I hopped in for a dip. I’m not sure officially how cold the water was, but I would definitely say somewhere close to freezing and it definitely woke me up.
If you’re passing through Arthur’s Pass and don’t have time for Avalanche Peak, try and make it to the waterfall. If you take the Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track route I’d recommend you conclude your tramp with a dip as I did.
Kea spotting in Arthur’s Pass
Besides the razor-blade ridge and mountain panoramas, Arthur’s Pass National Park is one of the best places to spot endangered keas in New Zealand. These are super-intelligent alpine parrots who will try their best to steal any food you have in your possession. You’ll often see them up on the summit of Avalanche Peak – it’s one of the best places in New Zealand to view them in fact.
Whilst I did not see any kea on the mountain, I did spot some as I drove through the pass. There is a fabulously-named lookout called Death Corner which overlooks the Otira Viaduct. I believe it’s another popular hang-out for the local kea birds to pester travellers for food. When I stopped to savour the soggy view there were a couple of keas there.
On Google Maps, the lookout is marked as Otira Viaduct Lookout and it’s located on a very tight bend so take care if you pull over.
How to plan your own Avalanche Peak or Scott’s Track tramp
That’s how my experience of Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track worked out.
This is a great tramp that I recommend to hikers who are of reasonable fitness. I’m moderately fit but I did consider it a challenging tramp, especially with the sketchy weather conditions. That being said, because I hiked up there on my own I was spared having to talk which meant I could focus on my huffing and puffing without having to make conversation!
In terms of planning your own hike up Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track, I’ve put together a few pointers so that you can prepare accordingly.
How to get to Arthur’s Pass
Both of the Avalanche Pass trailheads start just outside the township of Arthur’s Pass. So you’ll need to stay in the village the night before you plan your tramp.
State Highway 73 (or, the West Coast Road) connects Christchurch and Greymouth and takes you right to the village. The road is full of twists and turns and is devastatingly scenic. Even if you don’t want to schlep it up the mountain, I’d recommend taking a road trip through the national park. And at least try and visit the Devil’s Punchbowl which will take you around one hour there and back.
It takes around two hours to drive from Christchurch to Arthur’s Pass and about 90 minutes from Greymouth. If you don’t have a car, apparently there is a bus service from Greymouth, Hokitika and Christchurch.
The trailhead for the Avalanche Peak Track starts just behind the Visitor Centre and there is a car park where you can leave your car.
For Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track, you need to drive or walk about 700 metres out of town. The trail is signposted and starts very close to the car park for the Devil’s Punchbowl Falls. You can park there and nip over the State Highway to find the track.
Make sure you lock up your valuables securely. It never happened to me, but car break-ins are so common in New Zealand sadly.
Where to stay in Arthur’s Pass
If you are travelling in your own campervan or with a tent, you can camp at the DOC’s Avalanche Creek Shelter Campsite. The fee is NZ $10 per adult and the site has a toilet and shelter for cooking (you must supply your own cooking gear). There’s no toilet but you can do what I did and take an (ahem) ‘refreshing’ dip in the Devil’s Punchbowl.
If you’d rather sleep in a conventional bed then there are dorms at the Arthur’s Pass YHA and rooms at the Arthur’s Pass Motel & Lodge.
Arthur’s Pass is tiny so I would recommend booking in advance – especially during autumn and summer.
Which Avalanche Peak track should I take?
Really this will depend on your fitness and the weather. The Avalanche Peak Track is steeper and more physically demanding on both the lungs and the knees. But the Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track is only marginally less steep apparently. As I said, if conditions allow you can go up one way and return via the other.
The best thing to do is check with the Visitor Centre and see what they recommend. Also, if the weather is dodgy then it’s likely that one track may be closed.
Whether you hike up Avalanche Peak or Scott’s Track, the route is clearly identifiable by coloured metal markers. Follow the yellow ones for the Avalanche Peak Track and orange ones for Scott’s Track.
As the DOC officer told me, if you can no longer see the next marker you should abort the hike. Or, just do what I did and hang around for 20 minutes and see if conditions improve. If they don’t improve I wouldn’t recommend continuing though – it’s very easy to have an accident up this mountain.
When to hike up Avalanche Peak
Due to snowfall and the risk of avalanche, the Avalanche Peak and Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track tramps are only accessible during summer and autumn. So you will need to plan your hike for between the months of November – May.
How long is the Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track hike?
Whichever track you take, the tramp will take 6-8 hours to complete. This estimate should allow time to stop for snack breaks along the way.
In that case it’s best to leave early as you want to be off the mountain by dark. I’d recommend starting the ascent by 9 am at the latest.
Check the weather for Avalanche Peak
I was extremely lucky that the rain stopped for 24 hours. It was back again in full force that night and I left town the next day in yet more downpour. I recommend you check-in with the Visitor’s Centre in Arthur’s Pass township. They can help you plan your tramp based on the day’s weather conditions.
A few days in advance, you can also check the weather conditions with the New Zealand Avalanche Advisory.
Tell someone about your plans
If you’re tramping solo, let someone know your plans and text them when you’re off the mountain.
What to wear
Wear decent walking shoes or boots with a good grip. It’s steep and slippery in places so you don’t want to trip! I personally do not recommend wearing trainers for either of these trails.
You should pack layers, including a lightweight waterproof jacket. You’ll sweat like a beast on the ascent, but, once you’re at the ridge the wind can be very strong and you are exposed to the elements. Expect the summit to be cold even during summer. My hike was during autumn and I appreciated my woolly hat at the top.
I also recommend sunglasses, sunscreen and a cap for the ridge walk. If you have poles you will definitely make good use of them on this hike.
Snacks, snacks, snacks
Take double the amount of water that you think you’ll need and plenty of energy-rich food. I struggled to buy snacks in Arthur’s Pass as there aren’t many shops and they close early. So stock up on provisions from one of the larger cities nearby so you don’t starve on the mountain.
Dying to see the view?
I kid you not, this is part of the advertising material for tramping Avalanche Peak or Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track. Well maybe it’s not exactly advertising but more the case that the DOC advise extra precaution when hiking up these tracks. There have been a number of fatalities over the years sadly.
Should you need it, the emergency number is 111. My phone was on aeroplane mode the whole time but I think you do get phone coverage even at the summit.
If you do have an accident on the track, you would be covered by the Accident Compensation Corporation (ACC). But all foreigners and non-residents should also have travel insurance as well – just in case. Unless you’re loaded and can afford your own helicopter fees!
And enjoy! Hiking Avalanche Peak via Scott’s Track was easily one of my highlights of my 10 months in New Zealand. Even though I couldn’t walk the next day.
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