Route 1095: Driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by Motorbike

Zipping along a mountain road on a bike with the wind in my face is my favourite kind of backpacker travel clichè. Which is probably why one of my most vivid memories of Thailand is driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike along the twisty Route 1095. 

I sandwiched a trip to Chiang Mai in between Myanmar and Indonesia, the final destination in my solo jaunt around Southeast Asia. I’d been to Thailand several times before but had only visited Bangkok and the islands. So, before I left for a year of working in New Zealand I wanted to check out the mountainous north. You know, warm up for a whole year of endless mountains. 

While Chiang Mai is a spirited city with plenty of incredible sights to to see and things to do, it’s the mountainous realm outside the walls that took my breath away. After driving up Doi Suthep I was eager to get more of a taste of the lofty ranges of Northern Thailand. So I decided to take a road trip north to the hippy oasis of Pai: a small town close to the Thailand-Myanmar border. 

Seeing as I’d already paid for a week’s accommodation, I planned to make this a day trip from Chiang Mai. Drive out there early, and come back in the dusk. However, I fell right down the famous Pai Hole and stayed for two nights. My tongue has never felt so furry as it did those few days. 

This is my story of driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike alone and how you can plan to do it yourself.

Driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by Motorbike

There is only one road that makes driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike possible: Route 1095. This is famous (and equally infamous) for its curvaceous path into the Mae Hong Son mountain region. 

Featuring precisely 762 turns, many of these are hairpins and switchbacks that straddle a steep ascent. It’s a road trip from Chiang Mai for adventurous souls!

That being said, the infamous aspect to consider is that there are a lot of accidents on this road. 

I’ve heard of fatalities caused by motorbikes veering off the road – caused by inclement weather conditions and irresponsible motorists just as much as negligent driving. I didn’t consider the road to be all that bad, but I was fortunate to have it practically to myself both ways.

Still, I wouldn’t advocate novice motorcyclists driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike. And whether you’re a novice or pro, it’s still best to do some planning beforehand – it keeps others safe besides yourself after all. 

Anyway – health and safety pep talk aside – assuming you’ve got a bit of biking experience under your belt and a good helmet here’s how to go about driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike.

Step 1: Rent a motorbike in Chiang Mai

You can rent a motorbike in Chiang Mai from either your hostel or from one of the many rental hire places. However, if you intend on driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike you may find that some places will not cover you in case you have an accident or a break-down. Others might not even give their consent to take the bike to Pai – whether or not you agree to cover any damages. 

It’s definitely best to have this discussion at the time of hire. After all if you do get into a spot of bother, you’ll want to know who is footing the bill for a call-out or any repair work required. 

Whenever I stay in Chiang Mai, I rent my motorbike from Mango Bikes. Their rates are sound and the bikes are in excellent condition. At the time I drove to Pai, Mango was happy for me to take the bike to and from Pai. The other thing I love about Mango Bikes is that they will take Thai baht as a deposit rather than your passport – being separated from the most important thing I own always fills me with dread. 

An alternative who I haven’t used but had many recommendations for is Vanessa’s Motorbikes. At the time of writing, they also permit bikes to go to Pai. 

If you want to drive to Pai and then take the minibus back to Chiang Mai (or vice versa) then Aya Service offers one-way rentals. They even transfer your luggage for you as well to save carting it on your back! Again, I’ve not used them myself but have heard plenty of happy reports.

Step 2: Directions, directions 

Driving from Chiang Mai to Pai is as easy as pie Pai.

Pai is situated 130 kilometres (80 miles) from Chiang Mai. Driving to Pai from Chiang Mai motorbike takes approximately 4 hours each way. That’s subject to how often you stop to ogle the scenery, drink roadside coffee, and pet cats.

Drive north out of the walled city along Route 107, which starts right outside the Chang Phuak Gate.

The road is pretty dreary to start with, just your bog-standard highway, complete with congestion and pollution. But you just persevere and follow it straight north. There’s no need to summon Google Maps at this stage. 

It will take around one hour to drive from the walled city of Chiang Mai to the turn-off onto Route 1095. You will see signs for the turn-off very clearly marked as you ride closer. 

Once you turn left onto Route 1095, the landscape starts looking a lot juicier, greener, and curvier.

Tips for driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by Motorbike

Once you’ve got your motorbike sorted and know your heading, you can plan the rest of your trip.

Based on my own experience driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike on my own, here are 12 tips for driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike.

Travel light

A steep road full of hairpin bends doesn’t lend itself to lugging large backpacks or suitcases.

I would recommend either a) organising a transfer of your luggage to Pai or b) leaving the bulk of your stuff in Chiang Mai at your guesthouse. It’s far better than toting your worldly possessions up that curvy mountain pass! 

As I intended to stay in Pai only for one day, I just shoved a few bits and bobs under the seat. Snacks, layers and more snacks. Everything else stayed in my Chiang Mai digs. In hindsight, a toothbrush and a change of socks would have been handy but fluffy teeth and stinky feet are the essence of proper adventure.

Wear layers

While ascending into the mountains, you will notice a refreshing drop in the temperature. It will feel nippy on the back of your bike so I recommend taking a few layers.

I always recommend wearing closed-toe footwear while motorbiking as it’s far safer than flip-slops or sandals. Trainers or boots make driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike a heck of a lot safer. 

I wore long trousers, a rain jacket, and a lightweight scarf the whole way there and back which helped to keep me warm and dry.

Check for clouds 

One thing I wouldn’t recommend is driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike during a downpour. This will only make those corners even more slippy and increase your risk of having an accident. Do I sound like your mum? Good, it means I care. 

As you can tell from the photos, it was overcast the day I drove to Pai although the sky wasn’t threatening enough for me to worry. Light rain showers are fairly frequent during Green Season (May-October) which was when I visited. 

A bit of pitter patter up in the mountains brings out those scents you only experience in a wet rainforest. 

Regardless of the time of year you intend to drive from Chiang Mai to Pai, take a waterproof jacket or rain poncho just in case. The mountain climate is unpredictable. 

Get fuel before Route 1095

So you’ve got your motorbike, a squirt of toothpaste, and a sexy poncho and now you are officially ready to drive to Pai from Chiang Mai.

But before you make that left turn; check your fuel gauge. You should fill your tank just before you turn onto Route 1095.

You’ll pass several major petrol stations as you drive the highway north out of Chiang Mai. To my recollection, they were thinner on the ground after passing the Chiang Mai Rajabhat University (Mae Rim). Pull in somewhere along that last stretch of Route 107 before you turn left onto Route 1095. 

There are a few small, unmanned gas pumps on Route 1095 along with roadside cafes and fruit stalls before you start gaining elevation. But, you never know for sure that they’ll have fuel in them or that they will work. Or more accurately in my case, that I yield the understanding of how to work them. 

Once in Pai, there is a large petrol station in the centre of town.

Hang on tight driving Route 1095

If you’re planning on driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike you’ll already know this one. Route 1095 is full of fruity turns: 762 exactly. 

You will need to take the turns with care by slowly down and listening for traffic coming the other way. Damp or very hot conditions make the road more slippery.

I actually spoke to a couple of guys at my Pai hostel who had experienced a near-fatal crash that same day. The man involved in the accident took full responsibility and said he didn’t slow down for a turn and came off his bike as a minibus came around the corner. 

However, the paved road is in excellent condition and the scenery is epic. Take it slowly and use the time to soak up the landscapes: it’s safer for other passengers on the road and means you can appreciate the nature. 

Dense forestry lines the roads, and the higher you drive the more mountains open up. It is all the different shades of green you can think of and more. Waves upon waves of rolling hills and plunging valleys; you wouldn’t be that surprised to find a dinosaur capering around amongst the foliage.

Eaten your snacks early?

Before the road starts gaining elevation, there is a scattering of small restaurants and roadside vendors where you can buy light meals, fresh fruit, and coffee. 

I couldn’t resist stopping at one called Coffee We/The Witch’s House for an espresso. Decked out with witchery and paraphernalia, it had just the right level of cheeky tourist trappings for my tastes. This is the exact location on Google Maps. It’s right before the road starts to get snakey.

Scenic stops

There are a number of sites where you can stop off while driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike. You miss these if you take the bus as your driver won’t be stopping for the scenery.

The Mork Fa Waterfall is supposedly great for a dip. However, the track was closed during my road trip due to heavy rainfall, so I can’t testify to that. 

A highlight for me was the Kong Gnam Viewpoint where I befriended some kittens while taking in the mountain scape. 

Once you’re down on the flatter road that makes up the last leg to Pai, there’s more to see on the approach to town. You can stop to check out the Pai Memorial Bridge, constructed by Japanese soldiers during World War II.

Shortly after that, you’ll reach Pai Canyon. This is where you can start your official exploration around Pai!

Mind the cows /nutty drivers

The road was quiet for the vast majority of my drive. I only passed a handful of other vehicles. My main competition for the road was a herd of cows who had gone rogue, so do keep an eye out for those. 

One thing I noticed was that the minivans that ferry passengers between Chiang Mai and Pai aren’t too hot on sticking to their side of the road. For those gnarly turns, they tend to hop over into the right lane regardless of who might be coming around each blind bend. 

A year later when I returned to Pai I travelled by minivan and experienced first hand how easily the drivers discard the lines. Actually, this experience was more alarming than driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike.

Expect to fall down the Pai Hole

Once I made it to Pai, right down the Pai Hole I toppled. Pai is not only one of my favourite places in Thailand, or even Southeast Asia, but in the world. I’ve visited the hippy-go-lucky Thai town twice now and am itching to go back and stay there for at least a couple of months. 

I often describe Pai as Koh Lanta (the love of my travel life) in the mountains. The town itself is small and walkable with a friendly local community. 

Pai is surrounded by ravishing natural attractions to enjoy. There are a handful of swimming waterfalls to explore: Mae Yen, Mo Paeng, and Pam Bok. There’s a Chinese settlement, the Yunnan village, and an 800-metre long bridge constructed from Bamboo. 

If you want to keep on top of your cardio regime, climb the 353 steps to the Wat Phra That Mae Yen. This huge white buddha has the best view of the Pai countryside. You can even practice your circus tricks and smoke weed without any risk of being flung into a Thai prison. What’s not to love about Pai?

Carry the correct driving licence

Speaking of prison, make sure you have the correct documentation when driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike.

Unless you have a Thai licence, you will need a valid driving licence from your home country plus an International Driving Permit (IDP). Without this, you’re driving illegally in Thailand and the police will expect a friendly bribe of around 500 TBH before you can go cruising along their roads. 

There is a police checkpoint shortly before the descent down into Pai. They waved me through without checking my documents, however, I was still carrying my fine from Chiang Mai anyway. Good to know: when you pay a fine/bribe to Thai police, it counts as a waiver for the next 3 days if you’re caught again. 

Although, driving without a valid driving licence makes your travel insurance invalid in the event of an accident (I didn’t actually learn this until far later in my Southeast Asia travels). It’s best to go about things the legal way.

Drive in daylight

My initial plan was to drive back to Chiang Mai later that same day. In retrospect, that was foolish. Driving that road in the dark with only a few months’ of motorbiking experience would have been incredibly dangerous. Missing out on the delights of Pai would have been even worse.

I’m so relieved that I had the flexibility to change my plans at the last-minute and stay in town. With all those twists and turns, it’s just too easy for an accident on Route 1095. 

Even if you’re a pro biker, the minivan drivers are very unpredictable. Once you’re off the mountain road, the conditions are much easier though. Providing you get down the twisty bit of the route, you could drive back the last 1-2 hours safely in the dark.

Rather not drive after all? 

In that case, you can take a minivan to Pai.

These depart from the Chiang Mai Minivan Station which is next to Chiang Mai Bus Terminal 3, east of the walled city. 

There are some signs that say ‘Bus to Pai’ you can follow. However, when I went by bus my second time to Pai, I missed them all and relied on friendly Thais to send me on my way. 

Buses leave every hour and at the time of writing it costs 150 THB (£3.75) each way.

In high season, buses fill quickly so you might have to wait around. Alternatively, you can ask your hostel in Chiang Mai to book your ticket in advance for you. 

FInal Thoughts on Route 1095

And that’s all I can really say about driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike!

Drive safely and enjoy the ride…

Featured image courtesy of Ash Edmonds on Unsplash

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