Tbilisi isn’t your typical capital. With a little over a million permanent residents in town, it’s not overwhelmingly large and much of the centre is pretty walkable (and pretty in general).
The eclectic architecture of the Georgian city brings to mind of a couple of my favourite European cities. But once I sidle down a backstreet, I’m reminded that, technically, this is the Asian continent. Overall I’d say that the culture and vibe of Tbilisi feels more characteristic of Asia, with shared meals, jostling bazaars, and a lackadaisical approach to road safety. As you explore the many things to do in Tbilisi you can make up your own mind about what the identity of the city feels like; Asian, European, or a bit of both.
Georgia has now been my nomad home for 18 months. I relocated to Tbilisi from Bali with a plan to eat and hike my way around the Caucasian mountains and villages before boarding a ferry across the Black Sea into Eastern Europe. But when the pandemic struck, my travel plans were put on hold and I’ve been laying low in Tbilisi waiting until it’s safe to travel again. I’ve also adopted a cat since arriving here which has changed the shape of any future travels.
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Fun Things to do in Tbilisi
It’s been a strange year (and a bit). But, as the virus cases remained low in Georgia over summer, I’ve managed to experience a decent chunk of the city in between visiting further afield places including Kazbegi, Borjomi and Batumi.
The following list of things to do in Tbilisi represents what I’ve slotted in around closures, restrictions, curfews, and two lockdowns.
Omitted from the list are day trips from Tbilisi (coming soon), pleading with my Georgian dentist to give me anaesthesia before he drilled into seven of my teeth (Georgians feel no pain), some fairly uncomfortable minor surgery (where, thankfully, anaesthesia was a given), and clinging on for dear life in the back of countless taxis (Georgian roads are not for the faint hearted).
Wander around Marjanishvili
Marjanishvili is a historic neighbourhood on the Left Bank of Tbilisi’s Mtkvari River that is officially called Chugureti but more commonly goes by the name of the local metro station. As I type, Marjanishvili is my home in Tbilisi and a part of the city that has charmed me with its dilapidated yet beautiful buildings and its funky street art. After spending the past nine months living in the area, getting lost in its warren of streets has become one of my favourite things to do in Tbilisi.
Back in the day, Marjanishvili was a hub of Soviet sewing factories, the remains of which are still standing today. Now reimagined as a multi-functional urban space, Fabrika, is the most famous of these. When the Fabrika hostel opened its doors in 2016 it swiftly became known as the coolest place to stay in Tbilisi.
In addition to the hostel, the space features an open-air courtyard which is teeming with restaurants, bars and cafes as well as a co-working space.
Shops sell such essentials as polaroid cameras, skateboards, and pottery. It’s the kind of place that could plant you in any city but it’s still an interesting place to eat, drink, work, or get merry. Fabrika has become my go-to place to work in Tbilisi.
In addition to pausing for a brew at Fabrika and checking out the street art, you can use your time in Marjanishvili tucking into shawarma (there may be more shawarma places here than there are in Lebanon) and picking up second hand clothes at the numerous stalls dotted around the streets.
If you’re planning on staying in Tbilisi for an extended period, Marjanishvili is one of the neighbourhoods that I would suggest considering for your accommodation. There are lots of small grocery shops and conveniences, a medium-sized Carrefour, excellent public transport connections, and plenty of Airbnbs to choose from.
Find Davit Agmashenebeli Avenue
While roaming around the lanes of Marjanishvili, do take a minute to walk along one of the prettiest streets in Tbilisi. Davit Agmashenebeli Avenue is a long, pedestrianised street lined with elegant, pastel-coloured 19th-century buildings. Beautiful wooden and wrought iron balconies peer over the street and if you nip down one of the side streets you can visit an Armenian church.
Most of these buildings are occupied by cafes and restaurants. As it’s a touristic street, eateries here are a little pricier than elsewhere in Tbilisi and the food quality is honestly not the best. However it’s a nice place for a coffee or evening beer if you’re after inspiration for things to do in Tbilisi at night.
I recommend the White Russian at Salve (სალვე).
Seek Soviet trinkets at the Dry Bridge Market
When I walk from my apartment to the city centre I usually take the route that passes through the Dry Bridge Market, which is a three-minute walk from Davit Agmashenebeli Avenue. This open-air market was named because at some point a branch of the river went beneath the bridge. The waterway has since dried up which is how the market ended up with its name.
The Dry Bridge Market is one of many flea markets that opened up following the collapse of the Soviet Union. Georgian residents would flog whatever they had to make some cash. Nowadays, the Dry Bridge Market is a cornucopia of Soviet memorabilia, jewellery, crockery, antiques, and weaponry. You can also browse collections of television remote controls, every electrical cable under the sun, sunglasses, qvevri vessels and cameras that may or may not function.
Many of the vendors do not speak English but they are kind and will do their best to explain what you’re looking at. Generally prices are reasonable but if something sounds too high apparently it’s acceptable to haggle (haggling terrifies me as much as phone calls so I can’t give any bartering tips there, sorry). This is a great place to visit if you want to pick up some souvenirs for either yourself or loved ones. If you don’t fancy shopping, having a mooch and a rummage through the kitsch trinkets is still one of the quirkiest things to do in Tbilisi.
Survey Soviet architecture at the Bank of Georgia
Another one for those interested in Soviet history; visit the definitive example of Soviet-era architecture in Tbilisi. The concrete Bank of Georgia Headquarters isn’t the prettiest building but it’s one of the most fun to look at with its raggedy Jenga-block style.
Constructed during the 1970s, the architecture blends Russian constructivist from the 1920s with Brutalist elements. Originally occupied by the Ministry of Highway Construction of the Georgian SSR, it later fell into abandon before the Bank of Georgia staked their claim on it in 2007.
Whilst I wouldn’t say visiting the headquarters is one of the ‘must-do’ things to do in Tbilisi, if you’re in town for a couple of days or living in the city, it’s worth the ride out to see it. From outside the Technical University Metro station you can hop on the 91 bus which drops you off a few minutes away.
This neighbourhood, Sabutalo, is popular with digital nomads and expats. It’s not my favourite due to the degree of traffic but properties tend to be modern and wallet-friendly.
Escape into nature at the Botanical Gardens
Of all the things to do in Tbilisi, a picnic and a stroll around the Botanical Gardens is a firm favourite of mine. But I’m generally a little obsessed with botanical gardens so I am biased. Immaculately presented, they are absolutely gorgeous whatever time of year you visit. Highlights include the waterfall, Japanese Garden, bamboo forest and the landscaped garden at the top of the gardens.
Located in Abanotubani, the gardens straddle the Tsavkisis-Tskali Gorge on the southern foothills of the Sololaki Ranges. The trails around the gardens take you up and down a couple of hills (steepish in places, wear decent shoes) which means you get some fantastic views of the city skyline. I’ve visited the Tbilisi Botanical Gardens a bunch of times during summer and winter. The flora is at its most resplendent in summer but if you visit during winter you might see the waterfall frozen over.
You can access the Botanical Gardens by following Botanikuri Street to the main entrance. Alternatively, you can couple your visit with a trip to the Narikala Fortress and Mother of Georgia (keep scrolling…) then use the entrance near the fortress. Either way, the entrance is 4 GEL and the gardens are open daily 9am – 6.30pm. You might want to spend anything from one hour to a whole day at the gardens.
Get panoramic views from Narikala Fortress & Mother of Georgia
Tbilisi’s skyline is dominated by the 4th-century Narikala Fortress which tumbles down the Sololaki Ranges, across the valley from the Botanical Gardens. Originally a Persian military defence, the modern-day Narikala Fortress is quite the opposite. It’s a great place to loll under a hot Georgian sun whilst taking in some of the best views of the city.
There is a track that takes you around the perimeter of the fortress. Eventually this becomes a scramble up a hill to the highest accessible point. Whilst exploring the fortress you will also see the Saint Nicholas’s Orthodox Church and another of Tbilisi’s icons – the Mother of Georgia (Kartlis Deda). This is a 20 metre tall statue of a woman in traditional dress bearing a sword (for enemies) and a cup of wine (for guests). There is no better emblem that sums up the philosophy of the country.
You can either walk up to Narikala Fortress or ride on the cable car from Rike Park (2 GEL). Obiri Street is the most direct route up which is a gradual climb up above the rooftops of Tbilisi. However my favourite is the option via Betlemi Street. This walk takes you through a sweet churchyard which has a gorgeous view across the city before you approach the walls of the fort.
It’s free to visit the Narikala Fortress and it is open 24/7. I recommend heading up either early in the morning or for sunset. During the middle of the day in summer, it’s exposed to the scorching Georgian sun. As there is an entrance to the Botanical Gardens up here you can combine the attractions and experience two of the loveliest things to do in Tbilisi.
Bathe in the sulphur baths of Abanotubani
If you enjoy getting naked in the middle of a city then you’ll love Abanotubani. This is one of the oldest parts of the city and features a cluster of sulphur bathhouses. In fact Abanotubani means ‘bath district.’
Now, a brief history lesson.
Tbilisi literally translates to ‘warm place’ and the city was named as such due to the thermal waters. Back in the 5th century AD, King Vakhtang Gorgasal was hunting in the area when he encountered these hot springs. Following their discovery, Tbilisi was later declared the capital of Georgia in place of the former capital, Mtskheta. It was King Dachi, son and heir to King Vakhtang Gorgasal who established the move at the bequest of his father.
Sourced from the ground, the water at the sulphur bathhouses is naturally hot. Originally the bathhouses were all communal and served a functional rather than relaxation purpose. Nowadays, to appease bashful Westerners such as yours truly, the bathhouses of Abanotubani comprise private chambers that come with a sulphur bath and a bathroom. You can rent them out by the hour and the capacities range from 1 pax to 20, with the cost and opulence increasing based on which room you book.
Once in the privacy of your bathing suite, you are encouraged to strip down to your birthday suit before plunging into the sulphur water. However if you book the traditional massage treatment, the kisi, you should pop your bikini bottoms/ trunks back on (women are asked to remain topless as it’s easier for the therapist to scrub your back). Note that the treatment is sometimes billed as a massage but based on my experience, a vigorous exfoliation is more accurate!
When exploring Abanotubani, remember to follow the path behind the bathhouses in the direction of Narikala Fortress so that you can see the beautiful Leghvtakhevi Waterfall.
Further afield, there is also one bathhouse in Marjanishvili and one at Lisi Lake (this one features private as well as communal baths). I’m a fan of Bathhouse No. 5 as well as my local, Bagni Sulfurei Zolfo, which is Marjanishvili’s offering, just off Davit Agmashenebeli Avenue. Floating in my own filth and having my skin rubbed raw is easily one of my favourite things to do in Tbilisi.
Visit Holy Trinity Cathedral
Wherever you stand in Tbilisi, you’ll be under the watchful gaze of its largest church, the Holy Trinity Cathedral, known locally as Sameba.
Construction of Sameba’ was completed as recently 2004. But what Sameba lacks in history it makes up for in beauty. The first time I visited the cathedral, on a blustery winter afternoon, I was surprised to see how large the grounds are that the church occupies. The cathedral is mounted atop Elia Hill and set within a large complex comprising a terrace and gardens. Sameba shares these grounds with a bell tower and the modest Church of Elijah the Prophet. You can enter the cathedral for free although you will need to cover up with modest clothing.
In addition to checking out Sameba, one of the other things to do in Tbilisi you can do is pay a visit to the oldest church in the city. The Anchiskhati Basilica was constructed in the sixth century and over the centuries it has been rebuilt due to damage acquired through various wars. During the 1870s, the dome was added. Anchiskhati Basilica is located right next door to the Gabriadze Clock Tower.
Clock the Gabriadze Marionette Tower
Dubbed the Leaning Tower of Tbilisi, the prize for the most peculiar building in the city surely goes to this tousled clock tower. Comprising a mix of different types of brickwork the tower is decorated with hundreds of pieces of tile and ornate Corinthian columns. Every hour on the hour, an angel pops out of the upper floor and performs a musical dance. Whenever I visit the tower, it reminds me of the tottering pile of secondhand books on my bedside table.
The tower is attached to the Gabriadze Theatre, where you can watch the puppet show conceived by the Georgian director, playwright and artist Rezo Gabriadze. Sadly I can’t vouch for the performance as it’s been postponed since I arrived in Tbilisi due to the pandemic. I figure it’s one of those attractions that snootier traveller types turn their nose up at, but I personally love this kind of thing and seeing the show is one of the things to do in Tbilisi that I’m most eager to try.
Peer into a courtyard
Courtyards are synonymous with Tbilisi. Meander around the neighbourhoods of Tbilisi and you will find these communal yards down every street. Wooden balconies, verandahs, spiral staircases and riots of greenery spill over the windy little streets. Of all the things to do in Tbilisi, going for a wander around its residential areas is one of my favourite ways to start my day. Rather than Italian as is typically assumed, the courtyards of Tbilisi come from Persian influence.
I would try and suggest some ‘must-see’ courtyards but that would spoil the fun of donning your walking shoes and finding some courtyards that haven’t broken the internet yet. Choose a neighbourhood such as Sololaki, Avlabari or Marjanishvili, carve out an hour or so for mapless wandering, and see what you stumble upon.
Despite the communal vibes, these courtyard residences are still private homes so avoid entering the yards themselves and be considerate if you want to take any photos. From my experience, the residents don’t mind their properties being snapped but they don’t like to appear in the pictures themselves.
Nosy at other people’s laundry
This one will sound weird unless you’ve already been to Tbilisi.
Once you visit the city for yourself, you’ll know what I’m talking about.
No matter what season it is, as you explore the courtyards of Tbilisi you will always catch a view of colourful clean laundry fluttering above the streets and courtyard homes.
It’s oddly photographic and my boyfriend and I usually (always) punctuate our prowls around the city with stops to admire billowing linens, towels, and trousers.
Follow the Gosha Art Trail
There is no such thing as the Gosha Art Trail which is exactly why you should follow it.
Gosha is a (possibly Russian?) artist whose slinky black cats, bulging khinkali, and pandemic ‘time machines’ decorate the streets of Old Tbilisi. Every time I step out for a walk I spot playful new additions painted onto the walls or discover a new (for me) street plastered in his work.
Keep an eye out as you explore the neighbourhoods of Old Town and you’ll spot this distinctive street art all over the place.
According to the virtual grapevine, if you contact Gosha Art via his Instagram account you can book a tour around the city with him.
Find your next read
Regardless of how cold it is (and whether or not there is a global pandemic) you can always find swathes of books for sale on the streets of Tbilisi.
Especially along Rustaveli Street, which is one of the major thoroughfares in the city. The lion’s share of these tomes are in Russian and Georgian but if you’re prepared to do the elbow work you may find the occasional text in English (or beyond).
In addition to the street vendors, there are three bookshops that I recommend if you’re seeking foreign language books. One of the most relaxing things to do in Tbilisi if you’re staying here a longer stay is to find yourself a nook in a cosy cafe or sunny patch of grass and lose a few hours to reading.
‘Mystery’ Bookshop
My boyfriend and I had success in finding multiple English and Spanish books in a bookshop on a side street just off Liberty Square. Walk 2 minutes down Shalva Dadiani Street on the left hand side and you will spot a neon sign broadcasting BOOKS. Enter the building, fumble your way through the pitch black atrium and at the other end you’ll enter the Narnia of tomes. Most of the stock is Georgian or Russian books but if you rummage around the back couple of shelves you’ll find a spread of European books.
They also keep a stock of newish English language books close to the till and they sell adorable mini books in Russian and Georgian which are great souvenirs.
Santa Esperanza
My second suggestion is Santa Esperanza on Saint Petersburg Street near Marjanishvili metro (my local bookshop and a drain on my bank balance!). Most of the books are in Russian/Georgian but there are a few shelves of English books too, most of which are second hand and you can find some great deals.
Prospero Books
This is a more well-known bookshop which has a cafe attached that is popular with freelancers who live in Tbilisi. Prospero’s have loads of English-language bestsellers and latest releases plus translated Georgian poetry, novels and history books. I picked up a Georgian cookbook and a Georgian travel/history memoir from here plus a couple of novels. In addition to fresh books you can pick up second hand titles for a couple of lari. Prospero’s courtyard cafe is a great place to stop for a coffee and slice of cake too.
Stretch your legs at lake
Once you’ve picked up a new book, do as the Tbilisi dwellers do and find a patch of sun on the banks of one of the city’s beautiful lakes. One of the most surprising things about this small city is how much water variety you’ll find. Waterfalls in the heart of town, bubbling sulphur baths, two lakes and even the ‘sea’.
All three of the lakes are easily accessible from the Old Town and you choose to spend anything from a couple of hours to a full day exploring them. Especially on a warm, sunny day – basking by a lake is one of the most fun things to do in Tbilisi.
I cooked up a guide to the three Tbilisi lakes but here is a quick summary.
Tbilisi Sea
As this large artificial lake resembles the sea it was named the Tbilisi Sea. In fact, the lake is a reservoir and supplies a large chunk of the city with lovely water! Tap water is drinkable here, FYI, so no excuse to buy nasty plastic bottles.
Tbilisi Sea is a rugged place to visit and doesn’t have rigid hiking routes in place. Every time I visit, I end up in a different place and just walk as far as I can before I find something that stops me walking any further.
How to get to Tbilisi Lake:
- Take the metro to Sarajishvili and hail a Yandex/Bolt for a couple of lari.
- You can hail a Yandex/Bolt to the Chronicle of Georgia monument and then walk down to the lake or use the Tbilisi Sea Club as your drop-off.
Turtle Lake
This high-altitude lake is located on Mtatsminda, the highest mountain in central Tbilisi. It was named for the gang of turtles who used to live in the water. I believe that there are fewer these days although on my first visit during summer I did spot one from the banks.
If you visit during summer you can take a dip in the lake – you’ll spot a marked area for swimming. If you visit during winter, you could also take a dip but you’d probably need to schedule a trip to the hospital straight after. This small lake takes less than an hour to walk around. You can take a picnic and make an afternoon of it or you can eat at one of the cafes that overlooks the lake. From the western side of the lake, there is a trailhead that takes you over the mountain to Mtatsminda park if you fancy adding a longer hike to your time in the city.
You can combine your visit to Turtle Lake with a wander around the Open Air Museum of Ethnography which I’m about to talk about.
How to get to Turtle Lake:
- Turtle Lake is accessible via a walk from Vake Park. It’s not the most walker-friendly route as you’ll be on the highway and there isn’t a pavement for pedestrians, but it’s not bad. A Yandex/Bolt from downtown Tbilisi will only cost you a couple of lari. You can hail one for your return as well.
- There is a cable car service to the lake from Vake Park but to my understanding this has been out of service for some time, and it’s closure isn’t connected to the pandemic.
Lisi Lake
Lisi Lake is a bonnie wee lake that’s located in the ranges above the Saburtalo neighbourhood. It’s a tad larger than Turtle Lake and takes around an hour to complete a lap around the water. There is lots of green space around the lake where you can enjoy a picnic among nature. Although it’s high altitude, because the lake is set back on a plateau you do not get city views from the lakeside.
You can take a dip in the water but again, it’s not something I’d recommend outside of summer. You can also cycle around the lake, bikes are available for hire if you don’t have one. When you approach the lake from the carpark, turn left and follow the path towards the public toilets and you’ll find the rental hut. I believe the fee is 10 GEL an hour.
Whilst you’re at Lisi Lake, you can visit the Dog Organisation Georgia Shelter and volunteer to walk a rescue dog. The last of Tbilisi’s communal sulphur baths is also located at Lisi Lake, although I can’t testify to what the place is like.
Food for thought, is Lisi Lake a shortened version of Tbilisi Lake?
How to get to Lisi Lake:
- You can take the 29 bus service from the city up to Lisi Lake. The route starts at Station Square and swings past the Technical University and Medical University metro stations.
- Alternatively you can hail a Yandex/Bolt for a couple of lari from downtown Tbilisi.
Experience Old Georgia at the Open Air Museum of Ethnography
Honestly, I’m not a great fan of traditional indoor-museums but the Open Air Museum of Ethnography in Tbilisi is easily one of my favourite attractions in the city.
This is a collection of traditional Georgian residences that were built, generally, in the 18th and 19th centuries. Most were built in Western Georgia and then later purchased and transported to Tbilisi to form the museum founded by ethnographer, Giorgi Chitaia.
All the buildings you see are the original homes, transported from the west to their new home on the slopes of Mtatsminda below Turtle Lake.
What I loved about the museum is that each of the buildings is staffed by a museum worker who will explain the artefacts in the house and about who would have lived there. In addition to the private homes there is also a wine cellar so you’ll get the lowdown on how Georgian wine is produced.
Entry to the Open Air Museum of Ethnography is 5 GEL and it is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am – 6pm. It’s a 15-minute walk from Turtle Lake and so it’s worth scheduling your visit to both at the same.
Crane your neck at the Chronicle of Georgia
If you decide to visit the Tbilisi Sea then you can combine this with a trip to see the Chronicle of Georgia.
This 30-metre tall monument is a cluster of pillars that chronicle the history of Georgia. Kings, queens and heroes are depicted on the columns and there is also a series of reliefs outlining the life of Christ. Although erected in 1985, the monument was never completed and there isn’t any information provided to thoroughly explain what you’re looking at.
One time I visited, there was a Georgian among our group and even he was flummoxed by what the reliefs were supposed to be.
It’s still impressive to see it so don’t let either of these facts deter you.
The Chronicle of Georgia sits on a hill that overlooks the city and the Tbilisi Sea so in addition to getting a close look at the carvings you can get a windswept panoramic view of the surroundings.
It’s free to visit the Chronicle of Georgia. You can get there by taking the metro to Sarajishvili and then hailing a Yandex/Bolt.
Hike to Mtatsminda Mountain
This is another of the things to do in Tbilisi that you can coincide with your visit to Turtle Lake. As I mentioned, you can hike from the lake to Mtatsminda – the highest mountain in Tbilisi.
The track is 6.8 kilometres and takes 2.5-3 hours in total to complete. It’s a clearly marked track and although there’s a gradual ascent at the beginning it isn’t challenging. Unless there’s heavy snowfall, like in my photo above, you can complete the hike in your regular trainers. The trail scoots up up the north slope of the Mtatsminda Range and traverses the cliff before dropping down into a forest then veering off towards Mtatsminda Park where it culminates. As you walk, you’ll see the red TV tower of Tbilisi looming closer.
You can then round off your hike with a wander around the park itself. Mtatsminda Park is essentially a theme park, complete with a roller coaster, ferris wheel and tonnes of food stalls. To return to the city, you can hop on the funicular or take the public bus.
If you want to visit Mtatsminda Park but don’t fancy hiking, skip the walk and head straight for the funicular or public bus. There is a platform that gives you a fabulous panorama of Tbilisi.
If you would like to go on a longer hike in Tbilisi, I recommend the trail to the Udzo Monastery which is an extension of this route. The hike ends near the village of Kojori and you can take a bus back to Tbilisi from there.
Delve into Tbilisi’s history with a walking tour
If you’re staying for a couple of days in Tbilisi and want to hear some of the city’s secrets then I’d recommend checking out one of the walking tours organised by Tbilisi Free Walking Tours. A mix of different tours run weekly. The Old City Tbilisi Tour takes you to the most iconic landmarks whilst the hidden tour focuses on the architectural secrets of the neighbourhood of Sololaki.
I personally went on the Hidden Tbilisi Tour. My guide was wonderful and inspired me to look more closely at the buildings in Tbilisi, and every other city I visit in the future. Part of this tour involved a peek into the building site of a major construction project in Tbilisi. The Georgian government invested major capital into renovating 18 properties in Lado Gudiashvili Square with modernised interiors and rejuvenated facades and your guide may sneak you in to see how the progress is going.
These tours typically take around 3 hours to complete. They are technically one of the free things to do in Tbilisi but you should take some lari with you to tip your guide.
Drink wine, eat cheesy breads
Almost last but certainly not least, one of the ultimate things to do in Tbilisi is to tuck into Georgian fare! Georgian food is carby, cheesy, herby, nutty, and delicious. Before I moved here, I’d salivated over pictures of Adjarian Khachapuri (the iconic boat-shaped bread dripping with cheese, butter and an egg) and khinkali (Georgian dumplings stuffed with meat, potato, cheese or mushrooms). But there is so much more to Georgian food than these two signature dishes.
Soups, salads and dishes loaded by veggies are very common here. Actually, I was surprised by how vegetarian-friendly Georgian food is. Beans feature prominently on menus in place of meat which is ideal for plant-based eaters. Walnuts and pomegranates are used with passion – my favourite food is easily the aubergine rolls that are stuffed with a creamy walnut sauce and topped with pomegranate seeds and fresh herbs. A close second is mchadi, which is cornbread that is often served with sulgini cheese or stuffed with it (chvishtari, in that case).
Whilst the triumph of Georgian cuisine is savoury, the sweet treat of churchkhela (a string of walnuts dipped into grape must) is something not to miss. Once the must hardened, these candle-shaped treats can be nibbled off the string. As someone who doesn’t have much of a sweet tooth, these really hit the spot as they aren’t too sugary and are perfect for an energy boost whilst checking out all the things to do in Tbilisi.
When you arrive into the airport here you’ll be handed a bottle of wine, which gives you a hint that wine culture is alive and well. Wine was invented in Georgia around 8,000 years ago and vintners still use the same traditional method of placing the grape must in clay vessels called qvevri which are then placed beneath the ground whilst they ferment. There’s a lot to be said about Georgia food and wine but that’s a blog post for another day. All you need to know is, come to Georgia hungry and expect to wake up with a sore head now and then.
Take a day trip
Alright so it’s not technically a thing to do in Tbilisi, but if you’re staying in Tbilisi for a couple of days or longer term, you can take a day trip to see another Georgian city. As the capital, Tbilisi has great transport connections to nearby cities and regions. Unless you have your own rental car, the most cost effective and fastest way to organise your day trip is to take a marshrutka (a Soviet shared taxi).
Some of my favourite day trips are summarised below.
Mtskheta
Georgia’s former capital, Mtskheta, is one of the easiest day trips from Tbilisi as the journey only takes around 30 minutes. Mtskheta is a small city comprising a cobbled square that’s dominated by the Svetitiskhoveli Cathedral, tapestry and churchkhela stalls and taxis milling around waiting to drive you up the mountain to Jvari Monastery.
The monastery provides an amazing view across the valley and you can see the confluence of the blue and turquoise Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers. A taxi up to the monastery and back to town will cost you between 15 and 20 GEL (per car, not per person). There are also lots of lovely cafes and restaurants in Mtskheta – I adored Cafe Tatin.
The marshrutka from Didube Bus Station to Mtskheta costs 1 GEL each way and there are several per hour. You can spend a morning in town and then return to the city and continue with some of the other things to do in Tbilisi on this list.
Gori
Darken your Georgian travel experience with a trip to the birthplace of Ioseb Besarionis dzе Jughashvili, more commonly known as Joseph Stalin. Gori is strangely accepting of its place in the dark tourism field, with its museum dedicated to the dictator and the only surviving public statue of him in the country. The city even features a Stalin Avenue. I really enjoyed the museum, and I strongly recommend accepting the offer of a free guided tour guide because unless you speak Georgian or Russian you’ll miss out on a lot of the details of Stalin’s life. Besides the museum, you can check out Gori Fortress and squeeze in a trip to the nearby cave city, Uplistsikhe.
Gori is just over an hour away from Tbilisi via marshrutka. These leave from Didube Bus Terminal and cost 4 GEL each way. If you want to tap on a side trip to Uplistsikhe, it’s most time effective to ask a local taxi driver to take you there – they are happy to wait for around an hour whilst you explore the complex. I paid 25 GEL for the return and wait but I think around 30 GEL is the typical fare.
Sighnaghi
Georgia’s city of love and wine is one of the prettiest places to visit from Tbilisi. As the capital of the Kakheti wine region, much of the action revolved around sampling the goods at a local winery or bar. You can also take a walk around the old city walls which feels like a mini Great Wall of China and visit the elegant Bodbe nunnery and its picturesque gardens. I enjoyed visiting Sighnaghi as a day trip during summer but autumn is perhaps the best time to visit when the city erupts with festivities around the wine harvest.
Sighnaghi is a two-hour marshrutka ride from Tbilisi, although my enthusiastic driver managed it in half the time. These depart from Samgori Bus Terminal (it’s right next to Samgori Metro in east Tbilisi) and cost 6 GEL each way.
In recap
That’s 20+ things to do in Tbilisi that will fill at least a couple of your days. As you can see, Tbilisi offers a mix of cultural, historical, and exciting outdoor activities.
Despite the fact that I lived in a large English city until I was 18 and then spent most of my twenties living in London, I in no way consider myself a ‘city’ person and it’s crazy to think that I’ve spent the majority of the past 18 months in a capital city. But, as I said, Tbilisi isn’t overwhelming and it’s such a diverse city. However you decide to spend your time in the city, I hope my list of things to do in Tbilisi helps you get inspired.
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