London to Hanoi. A one-way ticket to start of my nomad life.
Boarding my flight from London to Hanoi gave me the chance to experience the fantasy I’d been harbouring for years. Whilst my peers talked about getting promoted, buying houses and planning big white weddings, the only thing on my mind was a one-way plane ticket.
Whilst saving up, tidying up my finances and preparing to set myself up as a freelancer (tax, uhhh), choosing a destination hummed on the back of my mind. The actual travelling aspect was, obviously, the thrilling part of going location independent. But researching exactly where to go was something I didn’t have time for. Although, I’ve never been great at planning things, multi-tasking, and getting myself organised.
Anyway, I knew that I planned to head to New Zealand on a working holiday visa (at some point). So I eventually decided that South East Asia was the logical starting point for the Big Adventure. One chilly December evening in London, I cycled home from an event at the art gallery I volunteered at and opened Skyscanner. Committing to book the cheapest one-way flight from the UK – that turned out to be London to Hanoi.
And now for my first trick… a whistle-stop tour of Vietnam’s capital city in less than 1,000 words!
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London to Hanoi: The adventure begins
And so, Vietnam’s rowdy capital turned out the starting point of my digital nomad journey. I arrived bright and early in Noi Bai International Airport with my three-month visa and 12kg of stuff for my new life on the road.
Even belatedly picking up my draft of this blog post many (many, many) moons later to finally get this site live, I remember my excitement. I’d barely slept on the flight from London to Hanoi for the anticipation of spending the following X amount of months in the tropics. Also, a stellar collection of films courtesy of Malaysia Airlines was extremely welcome. Quitting the cinema played a starring role in my save-money-for-endless-travel strategy.
A millionaire in Hanoi
Now, it always takes me a while to get my head around currency in a new place. Especially in countries like Vietnam where there are just so many zeroes. To be honest I never got to grips with sterling and I lived in the UK for 29 years. In my dozy, post-flight state I handed over 300,000 VND for my fare rather than the 30,000 requested. Thankfully, the conductor handed the surplus 27,000 back with a chuckle…
I’d treated myself to a private room in a guesthouse for my first two nights in Hanoi. This was because I had a training session booked with a Chinese company in the middle of the night. Well, I would have done – if I hadn’t buggered up the date and missed it by a day. The company politely informed me they wouldn’t be proceeding with my application since I was evidently incompetent.
As I extended my stay in Hanoi (long story) I ended up moving into the Nexy Hostel. If you’re headed to Hanoi, I can’t rate more if you’re looking for a nice place to sleep. It is a stones’ throw from Hồ Hoàn Kiếm and has a killer roof terrace perfect for enjoying a few beers on, high above the smog of the streets.
You put what in your coffee?
Anyway, back to 9th February 2018.
The guesthouse receptionist handed me a map and pointed out where I could buy an egg coffee. Assuming I’d misheard her and she’d said ‘good’ coffee, I took the map and went on my way. But yes, it turns out egg coffee is a thing and it’s one of the best things my tastebuds have touched.
Egg coffee (cà phê trứng) was created in the 1940’s during the French War. A genius of a bartender decided to use a whipped egg in place of milk as a way around the milk shortage. If you go to Hanoi, just try it. Even if you hate coffee. Or egg.* Unless you’re allergic. Or vegan.
*You honestly can’t taste it.
City of Motorbikes
Rewind a little before I started slurping on all the egg coffee I could get my hands around. My first impression of Hanoi was NOISE.
This is a city ruled by motorbikes – they are everywhere. They’re on the road, as you’d expect. They claim all available slithers of pavement and are propped up in shop entrances. Every alley you walk down you’ll have to dodge them – at the same time as avoiding a run-in with those in transit on the road. If you’re planning on entering a Tough Mudder or something, book a flight from London to Hanoi and these streets will get you into shape.
Crossing the road, for my first couple of days, I’d hang around and shadow a local person as they crossed. If there was no shield available, I’d simply crack on and get further lost in the warren that is the Old Quarter. After a few days, you get used to it and find yourself striding right out in front of oncoming bikes as they artfully glide past you.
Also, in a Western country like England, drivers toot their horn when another driver messes up (usually accompanied by an expletive or the finger). Motorcyclists in Vietnam toot to let you know they’re there. That they can see you. That they’re about to accelerate. That they’re moving. That they might break. Might not. That they’ve seen someone they know. You get used to that, too.
Later, once I’d figured out how to drive a motorbike myself, I merrily tooted away myself. You’ll also get used to seeing an entire family of 5 piled up on a single bike, each one of them glued to their mobile phone. Driver included.
London to Hanoi in recap
So that was my first impression of Hanoi.
To me, Hanoi is roadside meals of steaming pho enjoyed from a child-sized plastic chair. If you are over 5ft – get used to sitting with your knees by your ear lobes. Like London, Hanoi is a place where you can be anonymous. I felt I could wander around the streets and be left to my own devices, people don’t bother you like they do in some places. I loved exploring the rabbit warren of alleyways that form the Old Quarter and I even enjoyed the endless soundtrack of honking and tooting.
Don’t get me wrong – Hanoi is hectic, congested and there is a lot of pollution. I definitely don’t think it’s a city that everyone will warm to as much as I did. But when you walk around there’s a lot of beauty in those dilapidated old buildings and special energy in the air.
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