Things to do in Kuching: City of Cats (Sarawak)

Did you know that there is a city in the Bornean state of Sarawak that translates into City of Cats?

Kuching comes from the Malay word for cat, kucing, and the city is proud of their fluffy heritage. Besides the cat museum, the cat cafe, the many cat sculptures, and the local radio station, Cats FM, the real-life moggies who call Kuching home are considered to bring good luck.

If you are a cat lover and have your sights set on a trip to Borneo you might want to add this city to your list. Besides experiencing the mighty cat culture, there are lots of other things to do in Kuching. Including, perhaps more fittingly for Borneo, visiting a Bornean orangutan sanctuary.

Funnily enough, it was whilst I was cat-sitting in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia that I hatched a plan to visit Borneo. Realising that I had a spare week before I needed to arrive in Singapore for my next pet-sitting assignment, I pounced on the chance to visit Borneo. 

Borneo is somewhere that I yearned to visit for many years. But, I’d always considered the island more a honeymoon destination rather than a backpacker place. I guess that I must have seen some ads during wedding season or something. 

I was pleasantly surprised by how budget-friendly Kuching was, even for a solo traveller. 

An actual cat in the City of Cats

(By the way, if you don’t like cats, then we probably can’t be friends).

Borneo: Sabah or Sarawak?

Before I chose Kuching as my Bornean base, I spent some time weighing up whether to visit Sabah or Sarawak. As I had only one week, I didn’t have time to explore both states. I always prefer to get to know a smaller area in more depth rather than dashing around and stressing myself out with ‘seeing everything.’

After researching what to see in both Sabah and Sarawak, I settled on the City of Cats. Essentially it appears that whilst Sabah is a stronger contender for mountain climbing and scuba diving, most of the activities I was eager to experience could be experienced in either state. 

Both states give tourists the chance to sight orangutans as well as other primates (such as the rude-looking proboscis monkey) and wildlife. You have chances to spot the world’s largest flowers, the Rafflesia, in either state. Plus, both have ample options for hiking. Ultimately, the flight connections to Sarawak worked out better for me as well. 

There’s no shortage of things to do in Kuching and I’d met other backpackers with nothing but praise for the city. It made sense to stay there for a week and explore the local area.

What’s Kuching like?

Kuching is the capital city of the Malaysian Bornean state of Sarawak. If the thought of spending a week in a city makes you shudder, fear not. Kuching has more of a small-town vibe and isn’t crazy congested or blackened by pollution. It’s a walkable wee city which you can see much of on foot. There’s no need to hire a motorbike unless you choose digs far out of town. 

It sits on the Sarawak River and is surrounded by national parks, including the Bako National Park (the oldest in Sarawak), Kubah National Park and the Kuching Wetlands National Park. So if you’re not wild about concrete jungles – there’s plenty of green escapes that are perfectly manageable for a day trip from Kuching. 

One thing that I loved is how easy Kuching is to get around via public transport. That means if you’re travelling on a budget you don’t have to book tours to experience the best of the area. There is an excellent public bus system and if you do need to take a taxi then you can use the Grab taxi app for affordable fares.

I travelled to Kuching on my tod so I ended up buddying up with some other backpackers from my hostel to check out some sights not accessible by public bus.

Things to do in Kuching: City of Cats

Heading to Borneo, I wanted wildlife, beaches, and all kinds of green scenery. For my base, I wanted a small, calm city to explore that wouldn’t feel overwhelming or congested. Kuching fit the bill perfectly. 

Based on exactly how I spent a week in the city, these are my tips for the best things to do in Kuching.

1. Hang out with Bornean orangutans

One of the main reasons to visit Borneo is for the chance to see the endangered Bornean orangutans. They’re endemic to both Sabah and Sarawak, so whichever state you visit you have a chance to see them. I visited the Semengghoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, where the Bornean orangutans live semi-wild. The centre rehabilitates orphaned and wounded orangutans, before releasing them to the wild once they are strong. 

Once free, the orangutans live in the native jungle, but the centre oversees their progress and still feeds them twice a day. That’s because the forest alone doesn’t provide enough to satisfy the hunger of these giant apes. The centre opens twice a day to coincide with these feeding sessions. Spectators are welcome to watch the orangutans feast on bananas, sweet potatoes and other goodies. However, we’re not permitted to feed them ourselves.

Watching the orangutans snack on their five a day was a highlight of my week in Kuching, and I could have watched orangutans all-day long. Naturally, it does get very busy at feeding times, but hey, who doesn’t want to see an orangutan? This was definitely one of the most popular things to do in Kuching.

Feeding times, at the time of writing are 9 am – 10 am and 3 pm – 4 pm. The centre opens one hour prior to the feeding time, so you can wander through the forest. But it’s worth double-checking on the website before you go. Entry costs RM10 per foreign adult. You can take a public bus to Semengghoh from Kuching, just ask your guesthouse for directions to your closest bus stop and the timings. 

2. Look for proboscis monkeys in Bako National Park

Another of the most memorable things to do in Kuching is visit the Bako National Park. At the northern tip of the Muara Tebas peninsula, Bako is accessible only by boat and it’s easy to visit without a tour. I caught the earliest public bus I could from Kuching (around 7 am, RM3.50 each way) which dropped me at the boat harbour. Once there, you pay the fee for the boat (RM30 each way) and the entrance fee for the park (RM20). You must remember the face of your boatsman and meet him at the Bako harbour at the time he tells you for the return journey. Usually that’s around 2.30 pm or 3 pm, so it’s best to get the earliest boats over to the park. 

A series of 18 colour-coded trails take you through the jungle and forestry. You can hire a guide if you want to learn more about the wildlife and habitat, but it’s not essential. Bako’s coastline is dotted with small bays, coves and beaches. Most of these are sheltered by the canopy, but, at points I was exposed to the sun and it was sweltering. If you’re lucky you might spot proboscis monkeys amongst the trees of Bako. Sadly, I didn’t see any during my time there. But I did enjoy exchanging the universal proboscis monkey greeting with every other hiker I passed. This means stroking your nose and looking hopeful that there’s one around the next bend. 

3. Camp in Bako National Park

Unfortunately, I didn’t know this was an option until it was too late. 

But it is possible to stay in Bako overnight in one of the guest cabins. Spaces are very limited and must be booked in advance online. As I was unable to book myself a spot in short notice, I only went for the day. I’d totally recommend that travellers to Kuching don’t make the same mistake I did, so have a look into it if you’re heading to Sarawak. 

Apparently, it used to be possible to camp in a tent but due to the monkeys getting a little feisty, the park had to put a stop to it.

4. Hoist yourself to the summit of Mount Santubong 

Together with a friend from my hostel, I tackled the steep climb of Mount Santubong. At 810 metres the mountain isn’t that high, but it’s famous for its crazy steep track. The route is formed by a system of ladders and ropes to heave yourself up the vertical trail. The entire route is covered by trees, which keeps you sheltered from the sun. 

There’s no entry fee to access the park and you don’t need a guide. But you do need to register your details at the entrance shack. I believe we started the climb just before 10 am and made it down just before sunset, so allow a full day to really make the most of the route.

We acquired a solo climber at the summit, who seemed up for company so we invited him to descend with us. The climb down was sketchy. Our new friend would sprint ahead, and turn back to us and holler, ‘very dangerous,’ and huff and puff. We must have been taking too long a time for him, as he was soon lost to the horizon.

There is a waterfall at the foot of the mountain with deep pools where you can take a dip and wash away the sweat. This was when the heavens opened, so we legged it back to the main road and stuck our thumbs out through the rain to hail a lift back to Kuching. Luckily, the guy who stopped for us had a car with a leaking roof so we didn’t have to worry about making his car wet. 

You can take a Grab to the entrance of the track. However, unless you pre-book a return taxi, hitchhiking is the only way back. Drivers don’t respond to pick-ups this far out of town.

5. Cruise for wildlife along the Santubong River

For the chance to spot resident dolphins, crocodiles and monkeys, I booked a sunset wildlife cruise along the Santubong River. This takes you through the Kuching Wetlands National Park, one of the seven wetlands of international importance in Malaysia. You also pass by some small riverside communities and mangroves which are a nice change from the main city. 

I remember watching the sun sink behind Mount Santubong from the boat whilst a pod of Irrawaddy dolphins frolicked in the final rays. Later, I watched fireflies fluttering under the moonlit sky. Sadly, I didn’t spot any crocodiles or proboscis monkeys during my cruise. Although considering the number of children I saw jumping in the river, I’m relieved there weren’t any crocodiles hanging around that night. 

You can book your tour online with Santubong Wildlife Cruises, or ask at your accommodation. Online, you have to book a minimum of two people (RM225 per person). However, my hostel was able to book me on as a solo traveller without paying a single supplement. So if you’re flying solo, double-check that with your guesthouse.

6. Kayak along the Semadang River

I booked onto the Semadang Kayaking Discovery package on the advice of some friends from my hostel. It sounded like a lot of fun, and they weren’t wrong! This is a full-day excursion along the Semadang River which snakes through the Bornean rainforest. Yet again – if you’re lucky, you might see proboscis monkeys in the trees. Alas, yet again, I didn’t manage to see any. I really need to get myself back to Borneo in the future…

My group consisted of two families and a trio of Austrians. I teamed up with one of the Austrians, as all the kayaks were double seaters. Again, I was able to book myself a space as a solo traveller via my hostel without paying a supplement. Although for this one, it looks like you can book online as a solo too. The Discovery Kayaking tour I booked cost me RM198. 

The water was shallow but fast-moving, and at times we had to kayak through rapids and turn the vessel quickly to avoid crashing into the bank. A lot of time was also spent ducking to avoid a mouthful of leaves. A highlight was when the guides gave us a break so we could take a swim in the river. I jumped in, not realising how strong the current was. I ended up with water up to my chest, clinging onto a rock on the river bed trying not to turn into a piece of driftwood.

Oh, and I’ll always remember in orientation how our kayak guides said ‘WHEN you capsize.’ Not ‘IF you capsize…’

7. Soak up the Bornean sun (and rain) at Damai Beach

If you want to get some R&R and top up your vitamin D, a trip to Damai Beach is one of the most relaxing things to do in Kuching. This is a long, sandy beach with gentle swimming waves, flanked by tropical foliage and panoramic views of Mount Santubong.

You can catch the public bus from town or take a Grab to Damai Beach. To return to Kuching, you’ll need to take the final public bus of the day which leaves from the Damai Beach Resort around 5 pm. Otherwise, it’s a private taxi (£££!) or hitchhiking. As with the national park, Grab drivers will not travel this far out of Kuching for a pick-up.

I visited Damai Beach twice, during my week in Kuching. My first visit was spent indulging in a long, lazy afternoon reading, swimming and dozing under the sun. After a few golden hours, the weather took a typical tropical turn and a storm brewed up. A torrent of rain wiped out the entire beach. Staff from the beachfront hotel ushered all the sunbathers along the promenade and undercover, warning us to avoid the coconut trees. So be prepared for that unpredictable equatorial climate. 

However, the second time I visited, the weather remained tranquil and I bailed on the bus back to watch a glorious sunset from the beach. Fortunately, I was able to hitch a lift back to town with a kind Bornean family before the final shreds of light vanished.

8. Visit Bau and the Fairy Caves 

There are a number of other interesting natural places to see around Kuching, that aren’t accessible with public transport. One thing to note about Kuching, I didn’t spot many motorbike rentals in town. Nor did my hostel arrange them. Plus, the roads are generally more populated with cars than bikes.

Instead, myself and two other travellers from my hostel decided to hire a Grab driver for the day. We booked a pick up from our hostel and agreed with the driver a rate for the day to take us around the following places. He was more than happy to do this, and he took us to some places that we hadn’t heard of too. 

First, he took us to Siniawan, a tiny Chinese settlement. We wandered around the streets then stopped off for an early lunch at the restaurant of some friends of our driver. After finishing our noodles, we headed to Bau. This is a small gold mining town that became populated with Chinese workers during the gold rush.

We made a pitstop to see the vibrant blueness of Tasik Biru (the Blue Lake). Next we rested at a peaceful spot by the Kanan River. Here we were able to have a paddle and cool down under the shade of the trees. 

Further down the road, we visited the bat colony of the Wind Caves followed by the Fairy Caves. The latter is a massive series of caverns filled with stalactite and greenery, accessible after a climb up an ancient tower block. This was a highlight for me, it felt like something out of Jurassic Park.

Our friendly driver also took us to the border between Malaysian and Indonesian Borneo before we went back to Kuching. I think between the three of us, we paid RM150 for this day trip around Bau. So all in all, it was one of the most budget-friendly things to do in Kuching.

9. Explore the City of Cats

Of course, if you’re after things to do in Kuching, look no further than the city itself!

A relatively small settlement, Kuching is a joy to potter around on foot. It’s not polluted or chaotic but peaceful and laid-back. I recommend taking a stroll around the city to see the Chinese shophouses and temples that are dotted around – alongside monuments and statues of our furry friends.

Besides the Cat Museum, there is a classic Upside Down House Museum (I love how many of these appear in mainland Malaysia). For something more high brow, you’ve got the Sarawak Museum plus a few others. Another famous site is Fort Margarita, which was built in 1879 to guard Kuching from pirates. 

After snacking your way along the Kuching Waterfront, I can vouch for joining a boat cruise along the Sarawak River. This takes you through the city, and gives you a nice view of the Masjid Bandaraya Kuching which is further out of town. In the evenings, you can choose from plenty of Chinese and Malay restaurants, plus there are a decent number of bars in town.

Over the weekend evenings, you can visit the Uptown Kuching Night Market. In short, there’s plenty of things to do in Kuching in between planning day trips.

Where to stay in Kuching

As a budget traveller, I booked a dorm bed in the Borneo Seahare Guesthouse. This was a very simple hostel perfect for thrifty travellers. What I liked was the fact that it had a kitchen where guests can cook – and complimentary toast was provided for breakfast. There is also a pool table and the staff were able to help me plan things to do in Kuching. 

Alternatively, check out the homestay Merdeka Guest House or browse AirBnb listings in Kuching. 

Final thoughts

That was how I spent a week in the City of Cats and gives you an idea of the things you can do in Kuching.

As you can see, Kuching is actually a great place to get around via public transport. Although I spent more money in Borneo than I usually do whilst travelling, that was because I splashed out on a couple of tours. But, my hostel accommodation was great value, and I didn’t want to leave without experiencing some of the unique Bornean wildlife and scenery. 

Kuching whetted my appetite for Borneo, and I know that I’d like to return in the future to explore more of Sarawak and Sabah.