One does not simply walk into Mordor. One can follow the Tongariro Northern Circuit – one of New Zealand’s 10 Great Walks.
Traversing the volcanic wonderland that is the Tongariro National Park, this multi-day hike is loaded with dramatic landscapes. The route takes you through the heart of the national park where you’ll encounter prime examples of New Zealand’s otherworldly scenery. You’ll sidle past smouldering volcanoes and thermal steaming, wander through ancient beech forest, and swoon over emerald, sapphire, and turquoise lakes.
The Tongariro Great Walk overlaps with one of the country’s popular day hikes (“tramps”) in New Zealand – the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.
Hiking the Tongariro Northern Circuit was a highlight of the year I spent working and travelling around New Zealand on my working holiday visa. This was my first-ever multi-day hike and although physically demanding in places it remains one of the most fulfilling experiences I’ve ever had.
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Tongariro Circuit Northern Circuit Hiking Guide
To help you plan your own Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk, I’ve prepared a hiking guide based on my own experience. In this guide, you’ll find out what to expect, what to pack, when to hike, and what the landscape has in store for you.
If you are short on time you can hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing instead. Parts of this Tongariro Northern Circuit hiking guide are still relevant as the two hikes overlap on the second day of the Great Walk.
What is the Tongariro Great Walk?
The Tongariro Northern Circuit is one of New Zealand’s 10 Great Walks. It is a 44.9-kilometre loop trail located in the Tongariro National Park of the North Island (Te Ika-a-Māui).
New Zealand’s Great Walks earn their status due to the diverse scenery encountered on the trails.
Consisting of the three active volcanoes Mount Tongariro, Mount Ruapehu, and Mount Ngāuruhoe, crater lakes, and wilderness, the Tongariro National Park exemplifies the purity and variety of New Zealand’s landscapes.
New Zealand’s oldest national park is also recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of the park’s Māori cultural and spiritual foundations.
Māori legends say that Ruapehu was wooed by Tongariro during her marriage to Taranaki. When Taranaki returned from his travels and caught the lovers, he fought with Tongariro and was defeated during the feud. Taranaki retreated towards the west coast of the North Island. Along the way, he carved the course of the Wanganui River and shed tears that became Te Ngaere swamp. Taranaki now occupies that same spot within what we now know as the Egmont National Park.
The Tongariro Northern Circuit is an intermediate/moderate tramp suitable for hikers with a reasonable degree of fitness. There is a strenuous climb up the ‘Devil’s Staircase’ that made me puff and a scramble to reach the Red Crater – the highest point of the track.
Besides these sections, there are a couple of other hilly moments. Overall the terrain is relatively flat. However, with a backpack stuffed with food, warm clothing, and camping gear this does add a bit more of a challenge.
Highlights of the Tongariro Northern Circuit
A quick peek of what awaits you on this Great Walk:
- Volcanic landscapes including Mount Tongariro, Mount Ruapehu, and Mount Ngāuruhoe. Mount Ngāuruhoe provided the filming location of Mordor from Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings film trilogy.
- Ancient lava flow and active steam vents.
- Ngā Rotopounamu (the Emerald Lakes)
- Sapphire-coloured Tama Lakes.
- Cascading waterfalls and trickling streams with the freshest water you could possibly drink.
- Wildflowers and beech forest.
- The chance to chat, play cards, and swap snacks with other hikers at the huts.
- On a very clear day, you might catch a glimpse of the ‘banished’ Mount Taranaki from parts of the track.
- The golden opportunity to experience all four seasons and all varieties of weather in 96 hours.
How long does it take to complete the Tongariro Northern Circuit?
You can opt to complete the Tongariro hike over 2 nights/3 days or the typical 3 nights/4 days.
While it is possible to complete it as a 3 day/2-night tramp, I recommend allowing yourself the fourth day if time permits. This means that you are less pushed for taking breaks, can factor in the various side trips from the main route, have more time to soak up the scenery, and enjoy downtime at the huts.
If you take the 2 nights/3 days option then you will need to commit to a minimum of 8 hours tramping each day while carrying your camping backpack.
Where is the Tongariro Circuit starting point?
The Tongariro Northern Circuit track starts and concludes at Whakapapa Village, within the limits of the national park. Unlike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing which starts and ends at different points and requires a shuttle service, the Great Walk is a loop.
Before you start the hike, it is beneficial to visit the Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre in Whakapapa Village.
Staff will advise you of the accurate weather forecast and current conditions on the trail before you set off. They also provide maps and answer any questions not answered in this Tongariro Northern Circuit hiking guide.
I also recommend that you leave any valuables in the secure lockers at the visitor centre. There is a car park where you can leave your vehicle however it isn’t secure and thefts are not uncommon.
You can collect your mandatory parking permit at the visitor centre or order one electronically via the details below:
Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre
Whakapapa Village
State Highway 48
Mount Ruapehu
+64 7 892 3729
tongarirovc@doc.govt.nz
The car park is located a 3-minute drive north of the visitor centre; the trailhead is right across the road.
Clockwise or anti-clockwise?
You can either hike in a clockwise direction (Mangatepopo Hut first) or anti-clockwise (Waihohonu Hut first). Either way, your
After weighing up various accounts and opinions, I opted for the clockwise direction which I understand is the most typical route. So for the purpose of this Tongariro Northern Circuit hiking guide, I’ll share my experience of the clockwise tramp.
It is typical to hike the Great Walk clockwise. This means that you join the Tongariro Alpine Crossing hikers on the second day and ascend to the Red Crater via the Devil’s Staircase before dropping down to the Emerald Lake.
The motivation for going this way is two-fold:
- The best views are generally ahead of you, for example – you have a view of the Emerald Lakes as you descend into the valley.
- You are hiking in the flow of the day-hikers rather than against them.
However, if you intensely dislike walking down steep hills – you might prefer to go anti-clockwise instead as it means you can walk up to the Red Crater (and down the Devil’s Staircase). Later in my Tongariro Northern Circuit hiking guide, you’ll see why I named this steep hill the Hill of Death.
Ultimately the rest of the track doesn’t vary too drastically in gradient.
How to get to Whakapapa Village?
Whakapapa Village is located on the western side of the national park. Turn off State Highway 47 (thee Volcanic Loop Highway) onto State Highway 48.
The village is approximately a 90-minute drive south of Taupō and a 30-minute drive south of Tūrangi. These are the best places to stock up on snacks and petrol before entering the park limits.
For those without public transport, you can get to Whakapapa Village via a shuttle bus from Tūrangi. Visit Ruapehu lists the various service providers, provides price guidance, and contact details.
When to hike the Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk
The best time of year to hike the Tongariro Northern Circuit is during the Great Walk season which runs from late October until late April. Conditions are at their most favourable during these Southern Hemisphere summer months.
Note that the Tongariro Alpine Crossing leg of the trail is inundated with hikers during December and January. In addition, the weather is scorching and you’ll need to carry extra water and take additional precautions while on the trail. For that reason, I recommend waiting until after the peak season ends and planning your Tongariro hike in February or March.
During winter, the Tongariro Northern Circuit is recommended only for hikers experienced with extreme tramping. You will need to carry mountaineering gear with you including a personal locator beacon and a snow shovel. You could hire a guide if you opt to hike during winter as a novice hiker.
The Kiwi Spring (September – November) is a possibility although there is a higher risk of avalanche and snow so check the weather if you plan to tramp in the spring.
I hiked the Tongariro Nothern Circuit in mid-February and it was perfect. Although the Tongariro Alpine Crossing was busy, the rest of the time I had the track almost to myself.
Over the course of the four days, I experienced frosty sunrises, sweltering afternoons, and nippy evenings. For the most part, the skies were clear although it was noticeably colder and windier at the Red Crater summit. Moderate rain, heavy fog, and powerful winds arrived on my fourth and final day while tramping through the Tama Saddle. Basically, all the seasons and elements in four days!
Where to stay on the Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk
When planning to hike the Tongariro Northern Circuit (or Tongariro Alpine Crossing), you are advised to stay close to the park the evening prior. This helps you to get an early start on the trail.
One option is to stay in Tūrangi which features a solid supply of holiday parks, lodges, motels, and guest houses. If you are tackling the Tongariro Alpine Crossing then you can arrange your shuttles from here. Unlike the Great Walk, the Crossing starts and ends in different places and so shuttle buses are essential.
Another option is to sleep in Whakapapa Village. This is the most convenient option but it is also the priciest. Check out Whakapapa Holiday Park for affordable tent pitches and campervan sites (powered and unpowered).
As the owner of a self-contained camper van, I “freedom camped” at Waikoko Campsite. This is a free campsite that operates on a first-come, first-served basis. You can camp there in a motorhome or tent. The basic campground features a cooking shelter and long-drop toilets. It’s a 45-minute drive from Waikoko Campsite to Whakapapa Village.
Tongariro Huts and Campgrounds
Once you’re on the trail you can opt to sleep in a bunk in one of the huts or camp in your tent. There are three huts with adjacent campsites managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC). These are:
- Mangatepopo Hut (altitude 1,190 metres, 20 bunk beds)
- Oturere Hut: (altitude 1,360 metres, 26 bunk beds)
- Waihohonu Hut: (altitude 1,150 metres, 28 bunk beds)
Advance bookings are required for all huts and campsites during the high season (late October to late April). During the off-peak season (May – late October) it is first-come, first-served.
You are required to bring your own sleeping bag either way and if you opt to camp, you will need to carry your own tent.
Home truths
- All huts and campsites have long-drop toilets but no shower facilities.
- Bunks at the huts include mattresses but you must bring your own sleeping bag.
- There are no plugs at the huts and campsites.
- 4G and phone reception are patchy on the trail and there is no Wi-Fi at the huts.
- Gas cooking stoves are provided only during the Great Walks Season (late October – late April). They are not available outside these months.
- You must carry your own cooking utensils, bowls, cutlery, cups, etc.
- You must provide your own food – the huts do not supply any basics such as pasta or coffee.
- Water is provided at the huts but you are advised to boil it before you drink it.
- DOC wardens are in residence during the Great Walks Season only.
What to pack for Tongariro Northern Circuit
You’ll need to carry enough food and clothing to get you through 44.9-kilometres of tramping but without overburdening yourself.
As with all New Zealand Great Walks you are required to carry all empty tins and packaging back to Whakapapa Village. There are no bins on the track or at the huts. That even applies to fruit and vegetable debris such as banana skins and apple cores!
This is what I packed in my backpack to last me for the duration of the hike.
Food and water
Breakfast: I mixed porridge oats with water and apples to enjoy with my instant coffee.
Lunch/dinner: Those backpacker staples of pasta, noodles, cous-cous, and bread rolls are the easiest foodstuffs to cook, carry, and dispose of. I carried a stash of fresh peppers, carrots, and tomatoes that I would chop up and eat raw on top of my carb base mixed with either canned sardines and tuna.
Dehydrated camping food is another option although this looked fairly expensive when I researched it. My fellow campers seemed satisfied with their Back Country Cuisine.
Snacks: To keep my energy levels up while on the go, I packed extra fruits, nuts, peanut butter, dates, and cereal bars. Everyone I met at the huts was armed with a giant slab of Whittaker’s chocolate and I’m pleased that I had the same idea!
Water: Aim to carry between 2-3 litres of water while on the trail. Water is provided at the huts and campgrounds however you are advised to boil it first. I would boil my water each evening for the following day and leave it to cool overnight. You can fill up your bottles at the various streams and waterfalls as well – the water is safe to drink.
Clothing and equipment
Even during summer, nights on the trail are extremely cold. In terms of clothing, pack layers. I picked out one pair of shorts and one pair of exercise leggings that I alternated between, and three tee-shirts to last me the four days. For evenings and sleeping, I wore thick jogging bottoms, a hoody, and a woollen beanie.
Parts of the track are exposed to the elements which might be anything from blazing sunshine to biting winds and even a dusting of snowfall. These are my packing recommendations:
- Sturdy, comfortable hiking boots and hiking socks.
- A lightweight waterproof.
- Thermals.
- Hoodie or warm jumper for sleeping in.
- Jandals or comfy shoes/thick socks for resting your feet at the huts.
- Small towel in case you take a dip in one of the waterfalls.
- Gloves.
- Headlamp (essential for night-time loo visits!).
- High factor sunscreen, sunglasses, and a sunhat (I also took a woollen beanie which I wore at night).
- Basic first aid kit (I carried electrolytes, painkillers, plasters, Tiger Balm, and antiseptic cream).
- Playing cards and/or a light book for evenings.
- Several refillable water bottles that you can top up with boiled water at the huts or fill up at the springs.
- Portable battery pack to charge your phone (there are no plugs at the huts).
- Hiking poles (optional).
- Camping mattress (for those camping).
Tips for Tongariro Northern Circuit Hike
- Because the Tongariro National Park is an active volcano area, there is always a risk of eruption. You can check the latest tramping advice with the Department of Conservation before you set off.
- Weather conditions are volatile and prone to change at the drop of a hat. Factor that into your packing.
- The whole route is clearly marked with trail beacons. Not at one point did I need to stop and scratch my head, even on the mistier days.
- Mount Ngāuruhoe and Ngā Rotopounamu (Emerald Lakes) are sacred to the local Māori tribe, Ngāti Hikairo ki Tongariro. Please show respect by not attempting to climb the volcano or by touching the water.
- As phone service is limited, tell a family member or friend your plans before you set off and warn them that you will be uncontactable.
- If you plan the Tongariro hike solo, expect to make friends at the huts and campsites! You will see the same hikers every night. My hut buddies included a mix of solo hikers and couples. We tended to stick to hiking independently but would bump into each other on the trails and hang out in the evenings debriefing on the day and playing games.
- Wear hiking boots that you have already broken in. The Tongariro Great Walk is not the place to break in new gear.
Day by Day Tongariro Northern Circuit Hiking Guide
Once you have the green light from the weather and are all packed and ready to go, this is a rough outline of the itinerary that you will follow when hiking the Tongariro Northern Circuit.
Day 1: Whakapapa Village to
Mangatepopo Hut
Distance: 9.4 kilometres
Approximate time: 3-5 hours
Start/end: Whakapapa Village/Mangatepopo Hut
The first day of the Tongariro Northern Circuit is the shortest leg of the tramp. It’s not so strenuous and will warm up your muscles for the journey ahead.
While you needn’t worry about hitting the trail too early for that reason, consider the weather conditions. The route is exposed to the elements and will be more taxing beneath the scorching New Zealand sun on a hot summer’s day. I recommend leaving by 10 am at the latest and looking forward to a session of chilling once you reach Mangatepopo Hut.
A flat, clearly defined boardwalk track weaves you into the core of the national park. You’ll see your first views of mounts Ngāuruhoe and Tongariro today.
There is an optional side trip around 30 minutes into the start of the hike. This takes you through a patch of woodland to a small waterfall and is approximately a 1-hour return. If you are planning a 3 night/4 day Tongariro hike then I recommend including the waterfalls.
You will spot the ancient steam vent, Pukekaikiore, and the low scoria cone, Pukeonake. Both Pukekaikiore and Pukeonake witnessed the last ice age when glaciers from Tongariro carved their route through Mangatepopo Valley. You’ll get a decent view of these during the final hour of the hike before reaching Mangatepopo Hut.
This was my first experience of tramping with four days’ worth of food, clothes, and camping gear including my tent, sleeping bag, and camping mattress (comfort first, folks). Although the trail was not so challenging, it didn’t take long to notice the impact of carrying around 10 kg on my back.
As I left early, I took my time hiking and stopped to appreciate the scenery as and when I liked. I arrived at the campground around 3 pm which allowed plenty of time to pitch my tent, chat to my fellow hikers, and wind down.
Our DOC hut warden treated us to a talk in the evening which was fascinating. She explained the nature of her work, the ethos behind the DOC, and shared details about the history, geology, and mythology of the national park.
Day 2: Mangatepopo Hut to Oturere Hut
Distance: 12 kilometres
Approximate time: 5-7 hours
Start/end: Mangatepopo Hut/Oturere Hut
Today is the pinnacle of the Tongariro Great Walk – this is the day that you see the Red Crater and the Emerald Lakes.
You are following the route of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing so you should expect to share the track with day trampers. I recommend being up and on your way as early as possible. I breakfasted, brewed a thermos of coffee, and packed up my tent and left camp at 6 am sharp to avoid the crowds.
Leaving the hut and campsite, you will follow a flat track for the first hour. But don’t get too excited as this soon turns to a steep climb up the Devil’s Staircase. This manmade staircase is etched into the mountain and deposits you at the Central Plateau where you can catch your breath after gaining 200 metres of elevation in one swoop.
The next leg is the final ascent up to the highest point of the Tongariro trump; the Red Crater. Due to erosion, this section requires scrambling and navigating rocks of all shapes and sizes. With the weight of my backpack, the strong wind, and the day-hikers – unburdened by large packs – this segment was challenging. As well as getting a head start, I recommend wearing gloves to help with this part.
Once at the summit of the Red Crater, take your time to savour the views! At 1,868 meters (6,129 feet) the peak offers a vantage point over the Oturere Valley and Emerald Lakes. The scarlet hue comes from the oxidation of irons in the rock.
The descent from the Red Crater is down a scree slope which is very steep and slippery. Even with great hiking boots, it is challenging to stay upright (especially with that overnight pack again!). I found this to be the most difficult part of the whole tramp and would recommend hiking poles.
Your reward for making it to the bottom is the three mesmerising Emerald Lakes, a true highlight of the Tongariro tramp. Volcanic minerals that washed down from thermal areas formed these lakes. From here, you can follow the track as it descends gently into the Oturere Valley, where you’ll find tonight’s hut.
Before making your way to Oturere Hut, you can tap on an extension and visit the sacred Te Wai-whakaata-o-te-Rangihiroa (Blue Lake). This will add an extra hour of walking and the trail goes in the flow of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.
Day 3: Oturere Hut to Waihohonu Hut
Distance: 8.1 kilometres
Approximate time: 3-5 hours
Start/end: Oturere Hut/Waihohonu Hut
As today is another short walk, you could start your day with a wander down to the Oturere Falls before making a move.
After sharing the track with Tongariro Crossing hikers yesterday, you can look forward to having the next stretch of track all to yourself again.
You will cross through a desert-like plain that meanders its way through the foothills of Mount Ngāuruhoe while providing views of the peak from all angles.
Eventually, this undulating path will drop down into a beech woodland where you will link up with the Waihohonu Stream. This beautiful spot is perfect for lunch; I spent around an hour in a peaceful nook by the water.
You will conclude your day with a relatively steep climb up through the beech trees. This brings you to Waihohonu Hut, which you will call your home tonight.
I was out in the bush in my tent but I noticed that the sleeping conditions were quite luxurious in this hut. The rooms and bunks have been recently renovated and had more space in comparison with the first two huts.
Day 4: Waihohonu Hut to Whakapapa Village
Distance: 15.4 kilometres
Approximate time: 5-7 hours
Start/end: Waihohonu Hut/Whakapapa Village
It’s the final day of the Tongariro Great Walk which means that by now your pack should feel a little lighter. Brace yourself for windy conditions on the fourth day of the circuit – this part of the park is prone to strong gusts. It was drizzly and overcast during my hike although this added to the misty-moors atmosphere.
The track gradually creeps its way up the Tama Saddle via a rugged stretch of moorland comprising tussock country and alpine herb meadows. Tama Saddle is home to some of the oldest lava flows on the slopes of Ruapehu and Tongariro.
The trail has a number of optional add-ons, all of which I recommend.
Your first side trip is to the Ohinepango Springs (1-hour return). This fresh, ice-cold water was delicious and I recommend stocking up. I rationed my two bottles’ worth over the next couple of days.
Secondly, you can swing by the Historic Waihohonu Hut (20-minute return). Built in 1904, this little red cabin is the oldest backcountry hut in New Zealand. It contains six bunk beds and relics including ski and sports gear. You can pop in to see the interiors for yourself.
Your final side trip will take you to see the Lower and Upper Tama Lakes. These two crater lakes occupy six explosion craters that were formed around 10,000 years ago during a series of volcanic eruptions. From the turn-off, it’s a 20-minute return to visit Lower Tama Lake and a 90-minute return if you choose to see both.
Shortly before you reach Whakapapa Village, you will pass by the impressive Taranaki Falls. This is your final sight of the Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk!
Final Thoughts
That was my experience of the Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk and what to expect from the hike.
My parting advice is to take your time and really absorb the scenery. All the side trips are completely worthwhile.
The second day is the most visually impressive stretch of the Tongariro tramp. However, I enjoyed the final two days as it gave me chance to reflect on what I’d seen so far.
I hope this Tongariro Northern Circuit hiking guide helps you prepare your own Great Walk in New Zealand.
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