Pankisi Valley: Ecotourism in East Georgia

Georgia is one of the most geologically and culturally diverse countries I’ve had the privilege of calling ‘home’ these past 18 months. Although the balconied streets and artistic spirit of Tbilisi have stolen my heart, I relish any opportunity to get out of the capital to experience the landscapes and lifestyles of Georgia’s mountain ranges and rural villages. One destination where nature and culture are in particular abundance is the Pankisi Valley. 

As the Pankisi Valley, or Pankisi Gorge, has a turbulent past the region is often skipped from a typical Georgian travel itinerary. Rather than lamenting over the history, this post is about the Pankisi Valley that exists today: a peaceful place blessed with astonishing bucolic scenery and a small ethnic minority, the Kists, that have worked together tirelessly to restore the region’s reputation and attract tourists. This is my personal account of visiting the gorge, what to expect when travelling to Pankisi Valley, and why this captivating area should not be overlooked.

An Overview of Pankisi Valley 

Pankisi Valley is located on the southern slopes of the Greater Caucasian mountain range in East Georgia. The gorge registers around 10 kilometres in length and comprises a cluster of small villages (or, hamlets) connected by one road. These settlements straddle the Alazani River which flows from the Russian border through eastern Georgia before eventually culminating in Azerbaijan.  

Most of these villages have their own school and mosque while the largest and most populous, Duisi, is the only one to have a cash machine, hospital, police station, and even a small museum and radio station. During my visit, I stayed in Jokolo which also has a church, Saint George’s, and is now taken care of by the resident Kist community. 

The landscape that welcomed me was one of lofty mountains, green pastures, native flora, and stretches of farmland populated by sheep and cattle. The valley contains three protected nature reserves populated by ancient yew trees, Georgian oak, and beech forest. If you visit during the winter, you can anticipate heavy snowfall to blanket the gorge and mountains. The region is rich in wildlife including roe deer, chamois, wild boar, brown bear, wolf, lynx, jackal, red fox, badger, as well as countless birdlife and reptile species. I spotted some birds of prey as well as a lime green lizard. I still have my fingers crossed that I’ll spot a wild bear before I leave Georgia (even if it’s the last thing I ever see). 

The residents of the valley are descendants of ethnic Chechens and Ingush peoples, also known as the Vainakh, which means ‘our people’. Colloquially known as the Kist people, the earliest tribes migrated to the valley around the 13th century following the Mongol occupation in the northern Caucasian mountains. During the 18th and 19th centuries, more Vainakh migrated to flee conflict over the Russian border. This was around the time the community became known as the Kists.  

Rather than Georgian, the dominant language in the Pankisi Valley is Chechen. However schools teach Georgian, Russian, and English and many of those working in tourism speak all four languages.  

Most of the Pankisi Valley residents practice Sufism, a mystical branch of Islam practised in other Muslim countries. The Kist Sufis observe Islamic holidays such as Ramadan and Eid, and every Friday the local women practice Zikr, a ritual prayer, movement, and meditation ceremony held in remembrance of God. It’s believed that the combination of singing, sweating, and physical tiredness purifies and generates positive energy. Only adult women attend and participate in the ritual and tourists are welcome to observe the event. 

Land in the valley is fertile and local Kists make a living off agriculture and livestock, with most families growing their own crops to subsist off. Employment also comes in the form of teaching at the local schools and the Roddy Scott Foundation in Duisi while other members of the community produce crafts and produce such as honey and delicious, alcohol-free Kist beer. However, the advent of tourism in the valley has transformed the economic status of the residents and opened the doors for locals to develop more lucrative businesses for themselves. 

The Art of Pankisi Food  

I can’t write about the Pankisi Valley without mentioning the food (and wishing I had a stack of Kist delicacies on the table beside me as I type).

Food, specifically the cheese, was one of the main motivations behind my decision to move to Georgia. One reason I continue to delay my plans to leave the country is that I can’t bear the thought of giving up my weekly khinkali feast and if I’ve become one of those travellers who seeks out places to visit based on what’s on the table. I think this is one of the differences between how I travelled in my twenties versus my thirties…

Following in the footsteps of wider Georgian traditions, family and food are the foundation of the culture in the Pankisi Valley. Pankisi cuisine is the second cousin of Georgian dishes; there are similarities between the two, but, just as every region of Georgia produces its own spin on the classics, the Pankisi Valley is no different.  

I ate all my meals at my chosen accommodation, Nazy’s Guest House. Here I sampled the likes of Nitti Gal (mchachi filled with nettles), Chaabilgish (Kist khachapuri) and Jijig-Galnash (boiled dough balls tossed with meat dried in the sun and served with garlic sauce). Salads were produced using fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, and herbs plucked from the crops in the on-site family plot. Everything was homemade in the guest house kitchen by Nazy, her mother, and her sister, and prepared using organic ingredients. I can’t say a single negative thing about anything I’ve eaten in Georgia, but the quality and freshness of the food in Pankisi was something else. 

And, of course, I was able to sample the Kist beer which is similar in taste to kombucha (one of my favourite drinks).

Breakfast deserves a special mention, particularly in a country where breakfast culture is fairly nonexistent. Each morning I tucked into a spread of pancakes served with homemade matsoni, jams, honey and butter. Just in case this didn’t quite satisfy our tummies, we were provided with a pile of fresh shoti puri and fresh eggs from the resident free-range chickens. Let’s just say that ‘shemomechama’ – when you are so full but you can’t stop until everything is eaten – came into play. 

During our guided walk around the Pankisi villages, our guide explained how the preparation of food is ritualistic in Kist culture. Kists see the preparation of meals as a means of conveying respect for their ancestors. It is also especially important to put in extra effort when receiving guests in the house. This translates to say that wherever you decide to stay in the Pankisi Valley, you are in for a culinary treat. 

Nazy’s Guest House

Moving over to where I stayed in the Pankisi Valley, the guest house that my boyfriend and I selected for our visit had to be Nazy’s Guest House. Owned and managed by Nazy Dakishvili, this was the first tourist accommodation to open its doors in the valley and Nazy herself is the very beacon of tourism in the gorge.

Born in the valley, Nazy later moved to Tbilisi where she worked as a lawyer. After a few years of working in the city, Nazy took it upon herself to introduce tourism to the Pankisi Valley. As well as opening the inaugural guest house, Nazy worked closely with her local peers to create tourist opportunities that would provide a wholesome experience for visitors while at the same time benefit the entire community. 

Situated in the village of Jokolo, Nazy runs her homestay guest house with her parents, sister, and a small fleet of employees. Originally built by her grandparents in the 1950s, Nazy oversaw the refurbishment of the property in 2012 in order to convert it into tourist accommodation. The guest house now comprises four comfortable bedrooms, three shared bathrooms, and communal relaxation areas for guests inside the building and in the garden and grounds. 

From the moment I stepped through the gate into the garden to when I flopped into bed on my first evening, it was impossible not to notice how much attention Nazy has lavished on every single detail. The fragrant rose garden was beautifully kept and kitted out with comfortable seating where I loved winding down between our activities. The bed was exceptionally comfy while tapestries and artworks added ambience to the room. 

I visited Pankisi during a baking hot late spring weekend but noticed that all guest rooms are equipped with radiators to keep visitors toasty during winter when temperatures can plummet to -10°C. The modern bathrooms are fitted with Western-style toilets and hot water showers, which were kept immaculately clean throughout my stay. 

Nazy and her relatives took such good care of us during our stay and had so much time for us that we both felt like extended family members. It’s no wonder the accommodation scooped up the ‘Best Community Based Tourism Award’ in Georgia in 2018. 

Sustainable Tourism

Nazy has taken a unique approach to induce tourism in this beautiful region. She travelled extensively around Georgia in order to experience for herself what was working for others and to seek inspiration for her own guest house. Her research shaped the renovation of her home into a guest house and helped her devise exciting activities for tourists. 

In fact, it was Nazy who instigated the Pankisi Valley Tourism and Development Association (PVTDA), an NGO promoting sustainable tourism and economic development in the region. Her philosophy is that if the younger generations in the Pankisi Valley have more opportunities available to them, then they will feel empowered to develop their own businesses in the region after their studies and pursuits further afield. 

One of the most commendable things about Nazy is how closely she works with the whole Pankisi community to create this beehive set up. She has teamed up with young adults, many of whom are students, who lead the guided hiking and horse trekking tours around the Pankisi Valley, which is an invaluable way for them to develop their skills and make an income. Our personal guide was a young woman about to turn 19 and start her studies at university in Tbilisi. This is a sign of the changes in the area; historically women would not have had this as an opportunity.

Nazy encouraged craftspeople to open their doors to visitors to share their work. Any food that isn’t grown on-site is purchased locally, including fresh shoti puri from the bakery and the non-alcoholic Kist beer from the local brewer. There are now around 10 homestay-style guest houses in the valley, all owned and managed by the women of Pankisi Valley. While tourism benefits all members of the community it has empowered women and the young in particular with a means to take charge and make a difference.  

All activities arranged by Nazy work in harmony with the surrounding environment. It was such a welcome experience to spend a few days exploring solely by foot, bicycle, and horse rather than car, and eating local produce rather than imported goods. 

Exploring Pankisi Valley

That’s a bit of background on the tourism set up of the gorge. The main things to do in the Pankisi Valley are learning about the culture of the region as well as hiking, cycling and horse trekking, and, of course, eating! For those seeking something even more intrepid, this area is also a wonderful place to camp. I can’t speak from personal experience (yet, watch this space as I would love to return!) but I understand that Nazy can help you plan a camping trip in the region.

Pankisi Valley: Discovery Tour

My boyfriend and I booked a ‘Discovery Tour’ via Nazy. This is the walking tour took us around Jokolo and the nearby villages, introducing us to the lifestyle of the gorge community. Our guide, Nalita, shared so much with us about the history and identity of the valley and its residents. She gave us an overview of the Kist people, explained the significance of any landmarks we passed, and thoroughly entertained us with her anecdotes and stories. 

The route took us past Saint George’s Church in Jokolo as well as two mosques and an amphitheatre that sits high atop a hill providing a panoramic view across the valley. It was built in 1986 in honour of those sacrificed during the Second World War and is used to host annual festivals, concerts, and sports events.  

Not far from Duisi, we visited the workshop of an elderly woman called Zizi who still makes her living by producing handmade felt items. Zizi does not speak English so although we weren’t able to communicate with her directly, Nalita provided context and we picked up a few souvenirs for our families. 

Once in Duisi, we visited the Ethnographic Museum which is a collection of everyday items from the past few centuries, curated by Khaso Khangoshvili. The museum is modest but the artefacts are fascinating, ranging from gigantic sheepskin robes worn by shepherds to ward away wolves and bears, archaic cribs for babies, and traditional ovens (pictured above).

Horse Trekking in Batsara National Reserve 

On our second full day in the valley, Nazy arranged for us to go horseback riding. Our trekking guide collected us from the guest house with our horses who sported the traditional Chechen saddle. After many, many years of horseback riding during my childhood and teens, I can testify that these saddles offer a far more pleasant experience than Western alternatives. Four hours is a long time to spend on the back of a horse…

For the first hour of the trek, we journeyed slowly alongside the river, passing cattle, sheep, and the occasional agricultural worker. After around an hour of riding, we turned away from the river and made our way uphill through the hinterland before eventually ascending up a trail to a viewpoint rising from the Batsara National Reserve. There was a scattering of rain by the time we reached this, but this only enhanced the scenery. As a Brit, I never mind a bit of drizzle. 

The horses were calm and clearly very accustomed to being ridden, which was a relief to my partner who had only ridden a handful of times before. We trekked at a slow pace, although occasionally my flighty horse liked to keep me on my toes. Our guide did not speak English but this wasn’t an issue as we could still communicate through good old hand signals and grins. He kept a close eye on us throughout the journey to ensure we were comfortable. 

Nazy mentioned that complete beginners have trekked in the valley, so this is an option that is available to everyone. I felt far more stable with the Chechen saddle than I ever did when riding with a Western one. The only comment I  would say it that even with the Chechen saddle, four hours is fairly intense on the rear, especially for a novice or first-time rider. But it was a great experience that I would recommend to Pankisi Gorge visitors and one of my highlights of 18 months spent in Georgia.

Cycling in the Pankisi Valley

One other activity that I enjoyed in the gorge was simply hiring a pair of bicycles from Nazy and cycling in the nature surrounding Jokolo. Nazy has invested in some top quality mountain bikes which are suitable for the rough terrain. My boyfriend and I cycled along the river and through the nearby farmland but if you are a mountain bike enthusiast I believe there are some more challenging routes if you want to make a day of biking.

Pankisi Valley Travel Guide 

If you are intending to visit the gorge for yourself, then here is a brief Pankisi Valley travel guide with some practical details and pointers to help you plan your trip.

How to get to Pankisi Valley 

The Pankisi Valley is located less than one hour by car from Telavi in the Kakheti region and around two hours from Tbilisi via the Gombori Pass.

My boyfriend and I took a shared taxi from the Isani metro station for the total amount of 40 GEL as far as Telavi where we planned to take the buses that I’d heard connected the city and the valley. However, on arrival, we were informed by local taxi drivers there were no such buses. While this might have been a ploy to get us to pay for a taxi, I think it’s equally likely the pandemic put a temporary halt to the bus service. We ended up hopping back in the car with our original taxi driver who charged us an additional 50 GEL for the transfer, making the total cost 90 GEL for the two of us.

Returning to Tbilisi, Nazy kindly arranged for a private taxi driver to take us from the guest house back to Isani for the rate of 70 GEL. If you are heading to the valley and choose to stay at Nazy’s Guest House, I recommend emailing Nazy to ask about the current travel situation and rates, or to book a driver via her connections. That way will mean less hassle and you’ll get the best rate. 

If you have your own car or a rental then you can drive and make use of the secure parking at the guest house.

Where to stay in Pankisi Valley 

Nazy’s Guest House is naturally the number one place to stay in the Pankisi Valley and I can’t speak more highly of this homestay. You can browse the options on the website or book via Booking or Airbnb. 

However, Nazy has inspired a number of other women to open their own tourist accommodations so you might want to peruse the other options to compare. I understand that Nazy does encourage guests to stay with her neighbouring guest houses and when she is overbooked she can help with an alternative solution. Many of the guest houses are listed on Booking.com when you search for where to stay in Pankisi Valley. 

When to visit Pankisi Valley

In keeping with the rest of Georgia, the Pankisi Valley is subject to harsh winters, hot summers, and a pleasant spring and autumn.

The best time to visit Pankisi Valley is during late spring/early summer (late May to early July) and autumn (September/October). This is when the weather is most agreeable for hiking, cycling, and trekking. If you visit during high summer, you will benefit from blazing sunshine and wildflowers but you will want to start your day earlier to beat the midday and afternoon heat.

Temperatures plummet as low as -10 C during the winter months. If you visit then, your activities will be limited but on the plus side, you can spend the entire stay feasting on Kist food (which doesn’t sound like a bad idea to me). 

One thing about the valley is that it isn’t as quite as well known as other parts of Georgia yet so even if you travel during high season, you should be fine getting a place to stay and you needn’t worry about crowding.

What to wear and pack 

In terms of what to wear, the Pankisi Valley is more conservative than Tbilisi and Batumi, and even other remote Georgian towns and villages. Men must cover their knees with long shorts or full trousers when in public. Nazy explained that it’s actually more culturally acceptable for women to wear shorter clothes than for men to roam with their knees exposed. 

I personally opted to wear long trousers and capped tee shirts during my stay, and I carried a scarf in my backpack in case we went inside any mosques. As I visited during summer, there was no need to take a jacket or hoodie, but if you intend to travel to Pankisi Valley in winter you will need the full winter wardrobe: coat, hat, gloves, boots, the lot. 

You will need comfortable trainers/ sneakers for the walking tour around the villages as well as for cycling and horseback riding. For more intense trekking deeper into the mountains, take proper walking boots. Shoes are not permitted inside guest houses. Nazy provides flip flops for her guests and going barefoot is perfectly fine if you prefer.  

Wherever you choose to stay in Pankisi Valley, plan some time to relax and take some personal entertainment. For myself, that was my book, journal, and some podcast downloads. Nazy’s Guest House was the perfect place to wind down and indulge in quiet time. 

Etiquette for tourists

When taking photographs in the Pankisi Valley it is important to not take photos of local residents without their consent. Due to a history of unethical journalists visiting the area, not all residents appreciate their photos being taken. Always ask first. 

Bear in mind that the Pankisi Valley is an alcohol-free community. Alcohol is not available for purchase and guests are requested not to bring alcohol into the valley to consume at guest houses. I’ll say it again though; traditional Kist beer is delicious!

Is Pankisi Valley safe?

Tourism is young in the valley and has only started to emerge over the past decade, thanks to Nazy and her vision. Due to the region’s turbulent past, the area has been tainted and some brand it as unsafe. During my short visit to the valley in May 2021, I neither felt unsafe nor unwelcome. 

I felt totally at home at the guest house and safe when exploring the villages with my guide, when horseback riding in the remote national reserve, and when cycling independently with my partner. The local residents were cheerful, friendly, and utterly courteous. 

Yes, the valley does have a history but any media reports you might see online are not on accurate depiction of what you will find in this serene place these days. Nazy and the wider community have worked hard to transform the valley into a safe haven for both residents and tourists and those efforts have paid off. Nazy and her family consider their guests their responsibility and were attentive throughout my stay, ensuring that I was well looked after.

Female guests are treated with additional care by the Kist community and I would also recommend the Pankisi Valley to solo female travellers. I would be more than comfortable to return to the valley alone. 

The most dangerous thing about Pankisi Valley? It’s how much food you’ll want to squeeze into your belly!

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