Chile is often likened to an island, bordered as it is by glaciers in the south, the Pacific Ocean to the west, desert to the north, and the impenetrable Andes to the east. Well, almost impenetrable. The Paso Internacional Los Libertadores (Cristo Redentor) cuts right through the heart of the mountain range and connects Central Chile with Mendoza, Argentina.
Seeing as I’ve had to hop the border a couple of times to validate my stay in Chile, I’ve had the pleasure of taking the bus from Chile to Argentina twice so far. I’m writing this post first and foremost as a testament to how beautiful the journey is. Also, it’s pretty typical for foreigners in Chile to travel overland to Argentina – for a fresh stamp and also just because, Argentina.
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Travelling from Chile to Argentina by Bus
Buses link Viña del Mar and Santiago with Mendoza. Cata Internacional and Andesmar are the two main companies operating buses, with options to purchase tickets online or at kiosks in the bus terminals. They leave bright and early and require a full day to complete the journey, allowing time to transit through the border. I like to book one of the solo seats and this means booking around a month in advance.
I booked my trips with Cata Internacional and had a positive experience. The buses were staffed by two men – one driving, the other overseeing the onboard experience. These guys took really good care of us both times, making sure we knew where we needed to go at the border crossing and keeping us all together as we were on and off the bus. It was kind of like being on a school trip as they shuffled us through immigration procedures.
In terms of logistics, you’ll need to arrive at the bus station at least half an hour before departure to check in at the service desk. This was quick for me in Viña del Mar both times but when I left Mendoza for the journey home during summer, I queued for 45 minutes. I think the check-in process was slowed down by the staff having to tediously pass a reCAPTCHA test for each passenger. Ensuring nobody was left behind, the bus left 20 minutes later than scheduled.
Los Libertadores: 29 curves and Aconcagua
Leaving Viña del Mar, the bus follows Ruta 60 past Quilpué and brushes the northern sector of La Campana National Park. Around the town of Los Andes, the landscape takes a turn for the vivid as you officially enter the Andes. Following the course of the Aconcagua River, the vegetation thickens and becomes greener, or at least during early summer when I travelled. When I travelled in the winter months, things were a whole lost frostier. The road skims the Reserva Nacional Río Blanco and passes a sequence of small villages. While the buses don’t stop, if you have your own car or rental, you could always make a few photo or snack stops.
Shortly before reaching the border, the road gains altitude swiftly via a dizzying series of switchbacks and hairpin turns. Los Caracoles (The Snails) is considered one of the most dangerous yet beautiful roads in the world. It climbs to 3,200 metres (10,499 feet) above sea level, with a strict 30 kph (20 mph) speed limit in place. There are 29 curves in total, but, if you lose count – they’re all numbered. While the landscape is different, the experience reminded me of driving from Chiang Mai to Pai by motorbike.
At the top, the road flattens back out and you’ll pass Lake Portillo, where a ski resort operates in the winter months. Shortly after, the Chilean border crossing station. However, there’s no need to stop here when crossing into Mendoza as the Argentine immigration office is located after the tunnel.
Ruta 60 ducks into the Tunnel of Christ the Redeemer (Túnel Cristo Redentor) and reemerges on the Argentine side as Ruta 7. The terrain changes almost instantly, with mountains streaked in shades of red and purple. If you sit on the left-hand side of the bus, you can keep an eye peeled for views of Aconcagua, the tallest mountain in the Southern Hemisphere. I was on the other side of the bus, but I got a clear view on the way back to Chile.
After clearing immigration in Argentina, the road continues through the mountains before levelling out and passing the bodegas responsible for producing the country’s Malbec.
Crossing the border
The first time around, I was surprised that after officially crossing into Argentina, the bus continued for another 20 minutes or so. The Argentinian border crossing station, Control Integrado Horcones (exact location on Google), is actually 16 km from the border. Once there, the buses line up outside the hangar alongside private vehicles and motorbikes.
In terms of the process with Cata Internacional, we were instructed to alight with only our valuables and documents and queue up for border control. They organised it so each bus remained together as a group. After getting our passports scanned, we then returned to the bus and waited for the whole party to finish.
As is the new custom with Argentinian customs, you will not receive a stamp in your passport. Rather, a QR code is delivered via email or handed over by immigration when you leave the country. This caught me out when I took a trip to Buenos Aires earlier in the year. Having arrived at my Airbnb, I opened my passport and failed to find a stamp. After an extremely panicky moment, I turned to Facebook groups where other travellers clarified the new process.
We then had to queue up with our carry-on bags while checked luggage went through the scanners. This part was a little confusing, and we waited around longer than seemed necessary. Plus, our carry-on wasn’t searched in the end: we just walked through the scanner and then re-boarded the bus. On my second visit, it was a similar set-up – my bag was only searched because I flung it down on the table and opened it up for an inspector when in hindsight I don’t think he wanted to search it.
Returning to Chile the following week, the process was more thorough yet slicker at Aduana Los Libertadores (exact location on Google). Chilean immigration is very strict in general in terms of what you can and cannot bring into the country. As with airport arrivals, all travellers must complete a SAG (Servicio Agrícola y Ganadera) declaration either on the provided paper form or on the website. Paper forms are handed out on the buses due to poor service.
Chile takes fruit and veg very seriously. You need to declare any products and prepare to have anything of vegetable or animal origin confiscated. So if you’re partial to a fruit picnic when you travel, make sure you eat it ahead of the crossing. The bus manager frowned at my apple and warned me to eat it in good time. I’ve heard reports of mate (the herbal drink that Argentinians are rarely seen without) being confiscated but I was able to keep the bag I’d bought for my boyfriend, perhaps because it was a sealed bag.
Snow season in the Andes
During summer, I got extremely lucky on both of my crossings – spending around 90 minutes at the Argentinian frontera and an hour at the Chilean border on the way home. Both of my buses left early in the morning, road conditions were clear, and my travel dates were not close to a public holiday. However, it’s not uncommon to spend anywhere from six to 12 hours waiting to get through at busy times.
Given that Los Libertadores is a mountain pass, the road is subject to unpredictable snowfall that can cause the road to be closed. This is more likely in winter but not unheard of even at the height of summer. Rockfall is possible year-round. Therefore, you need to allow for flexibility regardless of when you intend on travelling the pass.
My second trip by bus from Viña del Mar to Mendoza took place at the very start of winter (late May). I avoid flying as much as possible and figured this time of year was minimal risk. However, there was a lot of early snowfall this year and the pass was closed almost the entire week ahead of my departure date. Actually, the pass was still closed the morning of my journey. As instructed, I proceeded to the bus terminal where I was informed the pass should open that morning and be ready by the time my bus reached Los Libertadores. It was kind of nerve-wracking and it’s really wise to stay informed with any closures.
Bear in mind that there are a few times of the year when the road is especially busy, such as immediately before or after a Chilean or Argentinian public holiday. Also, if the road has been closed due to inclement weather, you can expect the first day it reopens to be busy.
Bus or Fly?
While the bus can take a full day, flights connect Santiago Arturo Merino Benitez in one hour flat. However, the scenery on the bus is phenomenal, the buses are more comfortable, and we all know it’s far kinder to the environment. Coming from Viña del Mar, the bus is far easier as it also spares having to travel to Pajaritos in Santiago and then swap to the airport bus.
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