Back in July, I took a short break from work and squeezed in a road trip to el Litoral de los Poetas, or the Coast of the Poets. This strip of coastline in the Valparaíso region of Central Chile is named for the poets who once resided in the seaside towns.
Those specific towns are Isla Negra (Pablo Neruda), Las Cruces (Nicanor Parra), and Cartagena (Vicente Huidobro). But, there’s actually a lot more places to visit on the Coast of the Poets besides these three.
And, although the el Litoral de los Poetas is named in honour of these writers, the main attraction of the area is the beautiful seaside nature. In fact, with the exception of Neruda’s and Huidobro houses which are open to the public, there isn’t much to see in the way of museums or tourist attractions. The scenery reminded me a lot of New Zealand as well as England’s Yorkshire coast. It’s not hard to understand how the writers found inspiration from this gorgeous part of Chile.
These towns are extremely popular during the summer season. Visiting during winter was perfect as the conditions were more suitable for walking and clambering around the tidal pools. I hope to return to this stretch of coastline later in the year but feel like I lucked out seeing them without the crowds.
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Visiting el Litoral de los Poetas in Winter
I visited el Litoral de los Poetas in July: the middle of the Chilean winter.
Winter is a great time to visit the area if you love coastal scenery but if, like me, you aren’t wild about crowded summer beaches.
Daytime temperatures are pleasant for windswept walks although it’s definitely not swimwear season and you’ll need a decent winter coat, a beanie, and maybe even a thermal base. My partner and I experienced sunny skies, strong winds, and brisk conditions.
From my understanding, the beaches do fill up during the summer months, especially the peak months of January and February. Accommodation gets booked up early during the Chilean school holidays and public holidays.
Due to strong currents and waves, the vast majority of beaches in Chile are not safe for swimming. This applies to most of the beaches on El Litoral de los Poetas. But, there are exceptions.
Getting around the Coast of the Poets
My partner and I visited the area on a road trip in our own vehicle. This is the easiest way to get around and enjoy complete flexibility. For us, it was ideal as we only had a couple of nights for the trip and didn’t want to rely on buses.
Parking fees apply at all of these beach towns. Typically, staff work at the parking areas and place tickets on the windshield after you park. They will collect payment as you leave, either by cash or card. Most machines accept foreign cards but it’s wise to have pesos as backup.
Theft from cars is not uncommon in Chile so avoid leaving valuables in your vehicle while you explore.
Companies such as Pullman Bus and Turbus connect Valparaíso, Viña del Mar, and Santiago with the town of Algarrobo. Local bus services link the towns; it’s probably beneficial to understand Spanish (Chilean Spanish!) to use them.
Where to visit in el Litoral de los Poetas
The Coast of the Poets is personified by fishing villages and beaches strewn with craggy boulders, rock pools, and caves. As is the norm in Chile, the waves are wild and the currents are strong so it’s more the place for ogling views than diving in. That being said, swimming and surfing are possible at some beaches.
In the warmer half of the year, these beaches would be perfect for sunbathing and beach games – assuming you steer clear of those peak months.
These towns are much smaller than Valparaíso and Viña del Mar and have a rustic vibe. With the exception of Algorrobo, they contain minimal amenities, shops, and restaurants and are perfect for a detox.
These are the places that I visited during my trip.
Quintay
Quintay was our first stop after a scenic drive from our home in Viña del Mar along tree-lined highways.
This town is divided into a fishing village and two main beaches. Dozens of dive shops fill the main street and offer Open Water qualifications and fun dives. I’m considering booking a dive with one of them in the summer, so I’ll revise this post or write a review if this goes ahead. Although, it’s dependent on how comfortable I feel with my Spanish as I’m an anxious scuba diver.
Ex Ballenera is one of the main attractions at Quintay. The compound was once used as a whaling station and has since been turned into a museum spread over a sequence of outhouses. The first couple explains the history of whaling and is a sombre experience and not pleasant to experience.
Later, the units at the facility turn their attention to the more positive topics of marine biology and conservation.
Playa Grande Quintay is a short drive north of the main town. Forested hills and cliffs border this vast stretch of sand with a couple of caves at the end that you can explore. The sand is the colour of honey and there’s a lot of it; this beach would be ideal for an afternoon of unwinding with a book.
Parking in the main car park is expensive but there is a secondary parking zone off Av. del Curauma about halfway along the beach.
Playa Chica de Quintay is south of Quintay, although we didn’t personally visit this beach.
Tunquèn
If you enjoy getting blasted around by gusts of wind, Tunquèn is the beach for you.
Playa de Tunquèn is, apparently, always windy. The beach is almost as wide as it is long (it is very long) and completely exposed to the elements. Lacking the protective cliffs of Quintay means that there’s no shelter and it’s pretty bracing. Keep a tight hold of pets, hats, and anything else that might blow away!
It takes around 20 minutes to walk to the sea from the car park. First of all, you’ll follow a dirt track before eventually reaching the sand of this ultra-broad beach.
What’s special about Tunquèn (besides the free blow dry) is the wee nature reserve at this underdeveloped beach. Estero Casablanca is a small patch of wetlands where you can see the likes of Chilean coots, geese, and other birdlife. The banks of the lake are somewhat sheltered so you can grab a breather and a sit-down without the risk of being blown to Oz.
There are bathrooms in the Tunquèn car park but none once you reach the sand.
Algarrobo
Algarrobo is the most developed of the places we visited and constitutes as a town rather than a village. If you are travelling with public transport, Algarrobo is where you’ll likely start your Coast of the Poets adventures.
The beach is long and sheltered with gentle conditions, and it is possible to swim and surf here subject to the conditions. There are lots of dining options along the sea front overlooking Playa Los Tubos; we enjoyed a round of coffee and lemon pie while the storm pictured above rolled in.
Algarrobo is where the majority of the accommodation in the area is located, with a mixture of hotels and cabins. There is a Lider supermarket next to the bus terminal where you can stock up on snacks.
We rented a cabaña on the outskirts of town at Eco Cabañas Algarrobo (listed on Booking) for our el Litoral de los Poetas getaway. Surrounded by forest, the complex has a handful of self-catered cabins each with its own kitchen, bathroom, and patio. It’s owned by a lovely couple and their friendly dogs who liked to join us for al fresco breakfasts. This is an adults-only, Wi-Fi-free property so it’s truly peaceful – I’ll happily return in the future.
Algarrobo is the setting for the San Alfonso del Mar resort and the world’s largest outdoor swimming pool. This artificial lagoon overlooks Playa Internacional and features a replica of the Louvre.
As we didn’t stay at the hotel I can’t give any feedback. But, going from the photos, the pool does look incredible.
El Canelillo
Situated in the Reserva Nacional Parque El Canelo, El Canelillo is a beach in south Algarrobo. It’s named for the cinnamon and pine trees that loom in the backdrop of the cove.
A wooden pathway has been built into the woodland and it’s a really fun route down to the sand. It’s accessible too – so wheelchairs and those with prams should be able to reach the sand fairly smoothly.
The beach is not large and it’s one that I imagine fills up during the peak summer months. With the approach and trees in the background, El Canelillo reminds me of a couple of my favourite beaches on Koh Lanta. It’s often compared to the Caribbean.
Swimming is possible at El Canelillo subject to conditions on the day. But, as always, it’s important to pay attention to the flags and heed the advice of the lifeguards.
You can follow trails along the headland, popular with hikers and joggers.
El Canelillo has a brand new oceanside bathroom and shower block. At the time of writing, the cost to use the bathrooms is 500 CLP and 1,000 CLP to use the showers.
Mirasol
Mirasol is a tiny community north of Algarrobo. Playa el Mirasol, the main beach, is a continuation of Playa Algarrobo Norte. We skipped this busier spot and headed straight to Playa Mirasol Humedal.
Access to this beach is via a long stretch of boardwalk that twists down the cliffslide through the greenery. There are steps in some sections, and, unlike El Canelillo, is not recommended to wheelchair users or parents with prams. The walk takes around 15 minutes either way. Once on the beach, we enjoyed clambering around on the rocks and dodging the sea spray.
Glance back up at the cliffs and you can spot a trawler-turned-house perched at the summit. It’s a private residence rather than a guest house so you can’t get too close.
Playa Mirasol Humedal is the kind of beach that I would love to spend an afternoon on during the summer months.
However, there are no bathrooms neither on the beach nor at the top where you leave your vehicle. So, as lovely as it is, you can only stay as long a your bladder can hold out!
Punta de Tralca
Playa Punta de Tralca is another wind-prone beach on el Litoral de los Poetas. I’m not really one for picking favourites, but this beach stood out to me.
The beach is not particularly sheltered but conditions are gentler and swimming is possible at certain times.
However, the highlight of Punta de Tralca is the peninsula occupying the southern of the beach.
This is a sanctuary for local birdlife and is rich with plant life. You can walk up to the top of the headland and scramble around the rocks while checking out views over the Pacific Ocean. Even in winter, the colours were vibrant and the scenery felt like a fusion of all four seasons.
We were gone by then, but I can imagine that sunsets at Punta de Tralca would be an incredible experience.
Isla Negra
As the location of one of Pablo Neruda’s houses, Isla Negra is perhaps the most famous of Chile’s el Litoral de los Poetas beaches.
We headed straight down to the beach but the town has a decent offering of places to eat and stay.
Casa de Isla Negra (pictured below, right) is a museum with exhibits that detail the life of the poet and politician who claimed the 1971 Nobel Prize in Literature. It’s built on a bluff overlooking the beach and is attached to a garden where Neruda is now buried.
Despite being revered for his poetry, Neruda has been subject to backlash due to his treatment of women and the museum is considered controversial; the fence around the property is etched with messages in reference to this. If you do want to visit the house, you can buy tickets on the door. No advance purchase is necessary but you will need a Mobility Pass proving that you are vaccinated against COVID-19.
A small artisanal market takes place outside the house with vendors selling the likes of clothing, jewellery, candles, and children’s toys.
The beach in front of the house is covered in large boulders lashed by the waves. This one is definitely not a swimmable beach but it’s a beauty!
Las Cruces
Las Cruces was the home of the poet Nicanor Parra who passed away in 2018. Parra was known for being one of the early proponents of “antipoetry”. Equally notable, his sister, Violeta Parra, was a singer-songwriter and artist who championed women’s rights.
Parra’s house (pictured above, left) is in the process of being transformed into a cultural centre. For the time being, you can take a stroll past the house on Calle de Lincoln which has a look of an English cottage.
Las Cruces feels larger and more spread out in comparison to some of the other beach towns and has conveniences such as cafes and grocery shops.
We tried to go to Cafe de Parra but it was, unfortunately, closed. It’s only open on weekends in winter but it has great reviews so although I can’t recommend it, I’d single it out as a potential coffee stop.
Do also park near the “Mirador Punta del Lacho” (exact location on Google) and you can wander down the path to the beach. This one is littered with tidal pools and huge waves with sweeping views northward along the coast.
The End
(Almost)
Officially, the coast of the poets concludes at San Antonio. Las Cruces was as far as we went on our el Litoral de los Poetas road trip. We turned back and drove north back home to Viña del Mar to wind down and prep for the return to work on the Monday.
But, what’s a road trip without a little drama?
After coming off the highway early and getting lost in thick fog over the hills of Valparaíso, our trusty car hit a pot hole and we ended up pulling over on the Steepest Hill in the World in one of the rougher parts of the port city to deal with this situation.
And then, with the spare installed, we had to trust that it had enough air to get us down the Steepest (Seriously) Hill in the World. These photos do no justice to how steep this street was; even my boyfriend (the Calmest Man in the World) shed a few beads of sweat.
The moral of the story? Always carry a spare tire on a road trip.
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