Before my first trip to La Campana National Park I turned to Google for what we needed to know. My research yielded the terrifying news that the park is crawling with araña pollitos (Chilean Rose tarantula) and that they are frequently encountered by hikers (and even more terrifyingly, campers). I sent a screenshot to my partner to warn him that we might encounter hairy spiders the size of our hands.
When he replied and said these tarantulas also dwell in our garden, I opened a fresh tab, ready to book the next flight straight out of Chile. Why, when we moved to Viña del Mar, had he been so quick to warn me about the highly venomous recluse spider that lurks in wardrobes and delivers a fatal bite but failed to mention these far larger (yet completely harmless) spiders? (Probably because they are completely harmless).
As we waited in the queue for the (overwhelmed) car park (it was a national holiday – the whole region had ventured out for a hike), a woman pointed out that an araña pollito had crawled beneath our car.
Seeing as I was expecting to encounter these spiders in the palm forest, I decided to stay put, hope it wouldn’t crawl into the vehicle, and assume there’d be plenty more sightings to follow. In the end, we didn’t see a single tarantula on the trail – turns out they’re nocturnal – but I’ve since spotted several “in the wild” near my house.
Anyway, I’m still here (and alive) and maintain daily checks in case these giants have crept into our casita.
Gigantic spiders aside, La Campana is a fun day out in the Aconcagua Valley. It’s easily reachable from Valparaíso and Viña del Mar.
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Following Darwin’s footsteps at La Campana
Charles Darwin visited La Campana in 1834 as part of his voyage aboard the HMS Beagle. La Campana National Park (Parque Nacional la Campana) was inscribed as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1984.
Darwin must have been in better shape than me as he made it all the way to the top of the Bell Mountain. We went as far as Mina La Pronistica which was more than enough for us as we slipped out of winter hibernation.
In fact, my first visit to La Campana National Park read like a “how not to hike”.
Despite leaving Viña del Mar bright and early, we’d under-anticipated how popular the park would be on a public holiday and spent an hour waiting to enter the car park.
We swiftly got lost and completed a few laps of the old campground before finding that the path we needed was right in front of us (and clearly marked).
Despite reading countless advice about carrying hiking poles, we shrugged it off and our knees still haven’t forgiven us.
We made the rookie mistake of scrimping on water (happy backs, unhappy throats).
This guide explains everything about visiting La Campana National Park.
How to get to La Campana National Park
La Campana National Park (Parque Nacional la Campana) is located in the Aconcagua Valley in the Valparaíso region of Chile. The closest town is Olmué, a 1.5-hour drive from Santiago, 1 hour from Valparaíso, and 45 minutes from Viña del Mar.
There are three entrances: Sector Granizo, Sector Cajón Grande, and Sector Palmas de Ocoa.
The first two are closest to Olmué with Sector Granizo being the gateway to the popular mine and Cima La Campana hikes. All stations have park wardens, bathrooms, and parking.
There is a decent amount of parking at Sector Granizo. We visited on a public holiday in spring and it was almost at capacity when we turned up. As such, we were one of the final cars permitted to park before the guards closed the gates.
The Valparaíso Metro links Valparaíso and Viña del Mar with Limache from where buses run to Olmué. It’s also possible to hail a colectivo, a shared taxi, although this is tricky if you don’t speak Spanish. Once at the plaza in Olmué, you’ll need to switch to a second bus headed for the national park.
Bus number 45 goes to Sector Granizo while bus 40 serves Sector Cajón Grande. These are cash-only and the amount shouldn’t be more than $1,000 CLP. Buses do serve Sector Palmas de Ocoa but the closest they drop you is 6 km from the entrance.
Fees for La Campana
As with all Chilean national parks, you must register your visit in advance via the CONAF website.
The website will prompt you for your contact details and passport information but will not take payment. Instead, you’ll pay at the park entrance – it’s best to take cash. At the time of writing, the fee is $8,000 CLP for foreigners and $4,000 CLP for Chilean nationals.
Best time to visit La Campana National Park
La Campana is open to the public from October/November until around May. Most trails – including the summit and mine – are closed once the winter snowfall comes in around June.
Lower-elevation hiking and biking trails are open during winter but may be closed subject to inclement weather.
It’s best to arrive first thing in the morning and hit the trail before the sun gets hot. This is especially important during the summer months of January and February.
The park is closed on Mondays, 25 December, and 1 January.
Hiking Sendero El Andinista
One wise decision was made and that was not to hike to the summit of Chile’s Bell Mountain. Cima Cerro La Campana is the signature hike in the park but it’s also the toughest: we wanted something moderate and scenic but not crazy intense.
There are actually around 16 hikes in La Campana including one to see a waterfall. We hiked to Mina La Pronosticada (the Forecast Mine), another of the most typical trails for first-timers.
The mine and summit hike are accessible from the Sendero El Andinista. The mine is at 1,270 metres above sea level while the cima is 1,920 meters. The hike started with a moderate uphill ascent snaking up through the shrubs. It was tiring but not insanely demanding although I wouldn’t recommend the climb at noon on a hot day.
After a couple of miles, the views began to unfold and we enjoyed beautiful scenery over the green valley. It was fairly cloudy although we appreciated the coverage and cooler climes. As we made the descent, the sky was bluer and we enjoyed glimpses of the Bell Mountain.
I can’t comment from personal experience but word is that the ascent from the mine to the summit is more of a scramble. I’m aiming to go back at some point to tackle it although the mine is more than enough to satisfy your heart, lungs, and eyes.
Apparently, you can see the Aconcagua peak in the Cordillera and the Pacific Ocean from the top on a clear day. The entire width of Chile!
For access to either of these viewpoints, you need to check in at Sector Granizo and follow Sendero El Andinista. As it takes an entire day to hike up and down, you need to arrive promptly when the park opens.
Timings for hiking Cima La Campana
Seeing as the hike up and down takes a solid eight hours, it’s only possible to hike to Cima La Campana if you start Sendero El Andinista by 9.30 a.m.
You also need to leave the mine by 12 p.m. at the latest. There are guards stationed on the mountain to see that this rule is kept to. Solo hikers aren’t permitted to go beyond the mine.
What to take to La Campana National Park
Water: There isn’t any potable water in La Campana due to the drought. The general consensus is two litres of water per hiker. We took one litre each and regretted not following the two-litre recommendation.
Snacks: There’s nothing but leaves and bugs to eat in the national park. Olmué has a small supermarket, a greengrocer, and several mini-markets although prices are higher than in larger cities.
Sun protection: Much of the hiking trails duck in and out of the forest; take sunscreen, sunglasses, and a sunhat.
Hiking boots: Proper hiking footwear is required in La Campana. Wear trainers if you’re looking to test out your travel insurance policy.
Hiking poles: My partner and I were the sole hikers sans poles. If you’re planning on setting foot on Andinista, show your knees you care and take some.
Muy buen artículo, me reí mucho con lo de las arañas.